THE SEASONS IN A 
FLOWER GARDEN 




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THE SEASONS IN A 
FLOWER GARDEN 

A HANDBOOK OF INFORMATION AND 
INSTRUCTION FOR THE AMATEUR 

BY 

LOUISE SHELTON 



ILLUSTRATED 



SECOND EDITION 
REVISED AND ENLARGED 



CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 
NEW YORK:::::::::::::::::MCMVII 



LISRARY of CONGRESS 
Two Cooles Recetved 
(WAV 10 i9or 
•V Copyngtrt Eatry 

CLASS (? 4 XXc'.ni' 



Copyright, 1906, 1907, by 
CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 



TROW DIRECTORY 

PRINTING AND BOOKBINDING COMPANY 

NEW YORK 



TO 

THE MEMORY OF MY LITTLE SPANIEL 

"IDOL" 

FOR TWELVE YEARS MY SHADOW 

IN MY GARDEN 



INTRODUCTORY 

These pages are for the most part a condensed record of 
flower-time — just a little garden wisdom, which may guide 
others who, unaided by an "experienced man," do give love- 
labor to the "green things growing." They are especially 
prepared for those who have small gardens where space must 
be economized in order to welcome the variety of posies that 
are the heart's desire. 

After some short directions on Plans, Planting, and Soil, 
the book is arranged in the order of months, beginning 
with September, for reasons explained later, and giving under 
each month a few introductory suggestions and a list of its 
flowering plants, together with practical hints for garden work 
during that month. After November winter intervenes, and 
the record begins again with March. 

After a little study it should not be too difficult, I hope, for 
any one to select suitable plants and arrange them in such a 
way as to make even a small garden show well during the whole 
season of flowers. 

If the eye is trained in the harmony of colors, no fairer castle 
in the air can be imagined than a garden in its proper color- 
blending, abloom in every section all through the summer. The 
setting of plants with regard to height as well as to color adds 
to the intricacies of this fascinating scheming, which will bring 
a summer morning into the dreariest of winter days — the time 
for sketching plans for outdoor planting. 



INTRODUCTORY 

Following the monthly record there is added some condensed 
information about Wild Gardens, Shrubs, Vines, Roses, Seeds, 
and various important subjects relating to the culture of summer 
flowers. 

In naming flowers I must needs leave unnamed a host of 
comely plants that help to fill the catalogues. My choice is 
of those I have tried and found best suited for making a garden 
on a small scale show well. 

L. S. 

MORRISTOWN, N. J. 



Tiii 



CONTENTS 



GARDEN TERMS 

I. Plans 
II. Planting . 
III. Soil . 



PART ONE 
PREPARATIONS 



PAQB 

2 

3 

7 
11 



PART TWO 
THE GARDEN RECORD 



IV. September 

V. October . 

VI. November 

VII. March 

VIII. April 

IX. May . 

X. June . 

XL July . 

XII. August 



MIDWINTER 



15 
23 

27 

33 
37 
41 
47 
53 
59 



CONTENTS 

PART THREE 
GENERAL INFORMATION 

PAGE 

XIII. The Wild Garden 65 

XIV. The Water Garden 70 

XV. Shrubs 72 

XVI. Vines 75 

XVII. Roses 76 

XVIII. The Seed-Bed 81 

XIX. How TO Make a Hot-Bed and a Cold-Frame . 84 

XX. Seeds op Hardy Plants 86 

XXI. Seeds op Annuals 88 

XXII. Flowers for Special Places 90 

XXIII. Garden Pests and Remedies 92 

XXIV. Some Notes on Popular Plants . . . .97 
XXV. DoNT's 106 

XXVI. Bird-Houses in the Garden 109 

Chart op Garden, 40 x 30 Feet, to Bloom from May 20 
until Late September, with Remarks, Cost op 
Plants, etc 110 

INDEX OF ENGLISH AND LATIN NAMES OF THE 

GARDEN FLOWERS Ill 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Nothing but Flowers Frontispiece 

FACING 
PAGE 

An Attractive Garden Plan 16 

A Box-Edged Garden 34 

An Ideal Design 60 

A Grass-Path Garden, with Rose-Bower in the Centre 78 
A Grass-Path Garden, with a Pergola on Three Sides 100 



PART ONE 
PREPARATIONS 



GARDEN TERMS 

Hardy Perennials (h. p.). — Plants that withstand the winter in the 
ground, and are long-lived. They increase in root, and divided roots 
make new plants. Plants may be also raised from seeds, and will bloom 
the following season, but rarely sooner. Some h. p. seeds may take 
six months to germinate. Such seeds soaked in water for twenty-four 
hours and then planted will germinate soon after. Seeds may be sown 
under glass any time in early spring or out of doors after April 10th. 

Hardy Biennials (h. b.) may be left in the ground during the winter. 
They are sown one year, bloom the next year, and die. They should 
have a light winter protection. The seeds are sown under glass or out 
of doors in April. 

Half Hardy Perennials (h. h. p.) and Half Hardy Biennials (h. h. b.) . 
— They require heavier winter covering, and the seeds are generally 
started under glass, but can also be started in open ground after May 
15th. 

Tender Perennials and Tender Biennials (t. p. and t. b.) require more 
care in starting them. They are sown under glass and are not trans- 
planted to open ground until after May 15th. 

Hardy Annuals (h. a.). — They can be sown in open ground, some in 
April, some in May, or in frames in March. They last through certain 
months of summer and then die. They are perpetuated by their seeds. 

Tender Annuals {t. a.) require more care. Seeds must be sown 
under glass. Seedlings must be protected from much sun and cold ; they 
are transplanted from boxes to pots, and set out after May 25th. 

Halj Hardy Anmials (h. h. a.). — ^Treat as tender annuals, but these 
can be sown out of doors by June 1st. 

To continue the stock, cuttings are sometimes made of both hardy 
and annual plants. 

Mulching plants means to place a layer of grass-cuttings or old 
leaves, etc., on top of the soil about the plant to keep the ground from 
drying out. 



THE 
SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 

PART ONE— PREPARATIONS 

I 

PLANS 

Suggestions to a Beginner 

In laying out a garden, begin with a definite plan in drawing. 
If your aspirations lead you to design a garden too extensive for 
one year of the garden's allowance, be satisfied with remember- 
ing that other years are to follow, and confine the first season's 
efforts to the planting of the central part of your plan, and grad- 
ually work from within outward. 

Boundary Line. — Every garden needs a definite boundary 
line, for the place should be the enclosed retreat of the flower- 
lover — a place set apart from the rest of the world. The best 
border is of shrubbery, unless it may be a vine-covered wall. 

The Large Garden. — In a large garden all the favorite flowers 
and many of the shrubs of spring and summer can have their 
place. 

The Small Garden. — In a small garden, where a bright display 
is desired throughout summertime, most of May's hardy plants, 
as well as some of summer's large spreading plants, should be 
omitted, and even June's Pseonies, on account of their size, 
should be planted elsewhere; they are too beautiful to ignore 
entirely. 

S 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 

Shrub Bloom for May's Small Garden. — If, for lack of space, 
May's earliest posies are to be omitted from the main garden- 
plot, it may still be possible to encompass it with May-blooming 
shrubs, and to have the smaller May-blooming fruit trees and 
other dwarf blossoming trees outside, peeping here and there over 
the shrubbery, loading the air with their fragrance, and suggest- 
ing a veritable garden in the air. 

GARDEN DIMENSIONS FOR FORMAL PLANS 

In order to be more definite, I would suggest that 
a small garden might measure possibly about 25 x 30 
feet, wherein no bed is wider than six feet and the 
shrub border is not included; instead, a low vine-cov- 
ered wire fence {5\ feet) may be the boundary line, 
but a cheaper and more effective plan is to set cedar 
posts ten feet apart and six feet above ground. At- 
tach drooping chains or wire between the posts and 
train Roses, Clematis paniculata, or other vines up 
the posts and across. The first bloom in this garden 
is in late May, when Blue Salvia, Columbine, Pyre- 
thrums, Ranunculus, a few German Irises, Lupine, 
Clove Pinks, Garden Heliotrope, and Pansies come 
forth in strong contrasts, and help to give the rich 
coloring to June's garden; the choice of flowers after 
May being left to the fancy of the gardener. 

If possible, add three feet to the width of the out- 
side beds to give room at the back for a few more 
of such spreading plants as Irises, and for July red 
31 X 36 ft. Turk's-cap Lily and Hollyhocks, which would be 
crowded in the smaller garden with the plants al- 
ready named and the many more to be chosen; or 
else 

4 



25 X 30 ft. 



PLANS 

add six feet to the outside border of the first plan, to 

.^ ^^ allow for a row of shrubs, if preferred, instead of vines 
37 X 43 ft. . ^ 

as a boundary line. None of these dimensions yet 

named are large enough to contain plants like Roses, 
Dahlias, Sweet Peas, Pseonies, Heliopsis, Golden 
Glow, Clematis Davidiana, Helianthus, and if an- 
nuals are desired it is best also to omit Monarda, 
Bleeding Heart, Sweet Rocket, Anemone Japonica, 
hardy fall Chrysanthemums, and to include but few 
Irises. They would only occupy the space that can 
be better filled by certain annuals, which are showier 
and longer flowering. 

A garden of medium size might measure, for in- 
stance, 50 X 60 feet, which would give space enough 
50 X 60 ft. for a shrub border and almost all the popular plants 
except the earhest May bloomers, Roses, Sweet Peas, 
and would include a few Dahlias. 

Add ten feet, or more, each way to these last dimen- 
sions, and in this garden there would be room for 
70 X 80 ft. Roses and Dahlias, the Sweet Pea treUis, and all 
other old-fashioned favorites blooming from May 1st 
till frost. 
The number and variety of annuals to be grown depend upon 
the space left for them after the perennials are placed. 

Except Tulips and Hyacinths, the early hardy bulbs, Daffo- 
dils, etc., and Lilies-of-the-Valley are always at their best away 
from the garden, preferably in the grass, and where their tops 
need not be cut down until six weeks after flowering. They 
blossom early under leafless trees, and do not require much sun. 
The Plan in Brief. — If the space is not large, I repeat that 
the main garden should be reserved for the succession of bloom 
that begins the last week in May and ends with the frost, omitting 

5 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 

some of the too rampant growers of summertime. It should 
be designed to give the most effective coloring possible in harmo- 
nious blending throughout the season, and to give bloom in all 
parts of the garden at all times.* 

It may be several years before satisfactory results are 
obtained. 

WALKS 

In some gardens the beds are laid out in well-kept grass, 
so that the walks are over the green sward; otherwise, pebble 
paths are made, edged with low Box or Privet, or a narrow 
border of raised sod. The pebble paths should have a bottom 
of cracked stones, broken shells, or coal cinders. Few weeds 
will settle in such a walk. 

PLANS FOR IMPROVING A SMALL YARD 

In some places where there is not space enough for even a 
little formal garden, the boundary lines of the property can be 
softened by shrubbery which will be a congenial background 
to broad border-beds of hardy plants, interspersed with annuals. 
Except in the formal garden, the border line of any long flower- 
or shrub-bed laid out over the turf should be made in curves 
rather than in a straight line through the grass. The house 
can be surrounded with shrubs and plants and covered with 
vines. (See chapters on Vines and Shrubs.) There will be 
some path, however short, that can be bordered with flower-beds, 
while all necessary but unsightly objects can be concealed by 
vines and tall growths of various kinds. 

If much is to be expected of a garden, it is very important to 
have a water hydrant near by. 

* Consult garden diagram at the end of the book. 



II 

PLANTING 

WHAT TO PLANT 

For a wide bed. — In a broad bed (over twelve feet wide) 
bordering the garden, plant at the back Clematis and Rose 
vines or else shrubs three feet or more apart — according to 
their size — and in front of them, groups or lines of the taller 
hardy plants — such as Golden Glow, Hollyhocks, Miniature 
Sunflowers, Physostegia, etc. Then plant the next in height, 
such as clumps of Achillea Pearl, Late Phlox, Pyrethrum ulig. 
Delphinium, Foxglove, Oriental Poppies, Day Lilies, Irises, 
Lupine, Yucca, Veronica, Anemone Japonica, Coreopsis, old- 
fashioned Valerian, Hyacinthus candicans, etc. Lower plants 
to be set nearer the front are: Lilies, Platycodon Anthemis, 
Campanulas, Gaillardia, Sweet William, Early Phlox, Shasta 
Daisy, June Pyrethrum, Pentstemon, Lychnis, and others of 
about the same height. The little annuals, such as Portulaca, 
Sweet Alyssum, Candytuft, Torenia, Ageratum, Stock, Vinca, 
Lobelia, Phlox Drummondi, Purple Everlastings, and the Pinks, 
will make a gay finish to the front edge of the border. 

Remember that each month of summer should find an array 
of color throughout the garden, and not on one side in June, 
and on the other side in July. 

Leave ample room among the hardy plants for the host of 
lovely annuals. Place the plants close enough to allow the 
foUage to shade the ground space about them, which will prevent 
the soil from drying out too much. 

7 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 

In Very Small Gardens. — Omit from the beds plants as 
large or as spreading as hardy Chrysanthemums, Paeonies, 
hardy Asters, Anemone Japonica, Cannas, Monardas, Cosmos, 
Sunflowers, Roses (except climbers), Dahlias, Helianthus (h. p.), 
Bocconia, Sweet Rocket, Bleeding Heart, Sweet Peas, Clematis 
Davidiana, Hibiscus, Heliopsis, Scabiosa Caucasica. 

Plant more of the hardy plants for late May, June, and early 
July than for later months, because in hmited space the annuals 
will furnish the most bloom for mid and late summer till frost. 

WHEN TO PLANT 

At any time when frost is not in the ground the work of 
laying out a garden into paths and beds can be done. 

In the Autumn. — A new garden may be planted in late March, 
April, or even May, but the results obtained for the first summer 
are far more satisfactory when the beds are prepared in autumn, 
when also at least May's and June's hardy flowers had better 
be planted. 

The more work that is accomplished in autumn the more 
time will there be in spring for sowing and rearing the annuals, 
and for all the other pleasant labor which makes spring the 
busiest season in the garden. In autumn, finish planting most 
things, except late bulbs, by October 15th, so that the roots 
may be well estabhshed before frost. Plants set out in autumn 
must be especially well protected by leaves and brush for the 
following winter. 

In the Sprmg.—li a garden is to be made in spring, do not 
plant the hardy flowers for May and June unless it can be done 
by April 25th, for otherwise some will not bloom that season. 
Their places can be given to annuals, and the hardys planted 
the next autumn. 

Any time before May 15th the later summer hardy plants 

8 



PLANTING 

may be set out, and then prepare to fill the spaces with Gladi- 
oli, Dahhas, Begonias, and the brightest of the annuals that 
may be put out as late as June 15th. Many annuals can be 
bought in small plants by the dozen if you have not started 
them earlier from seeds. The time for sowing these seeds is 
explained in Part Three of this book. 

Early spring is the season for planting Anemone Japonica 
(in May, when they first appear), hardy Chrysanthemums, 
fall Tritoma, Althaea, Yucca, and Magnolias, all of which are 
apt to die the winter succeeding autumn planting. 

HOW TO PLANT 

In moving plants do not allow the roots to lie exposed to 
the hot sun or to the cold. Cut off bruised roots. 

Always put a good bed of manure, stamped down and 
covered by four inches of earth, under each hardy plant set out. 

In setting a plant do not double up the roots, but spread 
them out and press some earth gently about them; then fill 
the hole with water, let it absorb, add the rest of the earth, 
water again, but don't depend on soil that is damp from the rain. 

If plants arrive in a wilted condition, soak them in tepid 
water for an hour at least. 

If roots are matted and caked from being pot-bound, loosen 
the hardened soil by crushing it with the fingers. 

Keep new plants well watered, especially if the season is dry. 

Plant in groups of several of one kind, if the plant is not 
very spreading; the number of plants in a group depends upon 
the size of the plant and the size of the garden. If there is 
room, have masses of each color. 

Plant white and yellow on every side for each period of the 
flowering season, and place blue or dark red flowers next to 
white or pale yellow. This arrangement not only adds to the 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 

garden's brightness, but makes the more sombre hues show 
better. 

Plant with a view to having a well-balanced bloom in all 
parts of the garden continuously. 

DATES OF PLANTING DEPENDENT ON CLIMATE 

The dates mentioned in this book apply to gardens within 
sixty miles of New York City. Wherever winters are more 
severe and set in earlier, the fall planting should begin from 
one to three weeks earlier, depending on the climate, and in 
these colder places the spring work is somewhat deferred, and 
the spring bloom begins later. In very cold localities, and 
where the ground is stiff and damp and cold, it is often best to 
prepare the ground in autumn, and to plant as early as possible 
in spring. 

The September page of "Practical Hints for Work" will 
give the beginner still further instruction in planting. 

SELECTION OF FLOWERS FOR A SMALL GARDEN 

For a garden not large enough to contain all the flowers 
listed under each month select at least those marked with 
itahcs, they being the most effective ones, as well as the longest 
in bloom, and add as many more as possible. 

THE NAMES OF THE FLOWERS 

In the flower-lists to follow the most familiar names are 
used, whether scientific or common. 



10 



Ill 

SOIL 

Better begin a garden with one flower-bed properly made 
than to attempt it with a larger garden in poor soil. 

Manure in sandy soil is about as wasteful as burying coins. 
The next year there is nothing left but the memory of the cost 
of the fertilizer; therefore if the soil is poor a bed for hardy 
plants should be made as follows: 

Remove the soil and stones to the depth of from eighteen 
inches to two feet. If the ground is very sandy, spread a thin 
layer of packed ashes over the bottom, or preferably two inches 
of light clay ; then put in several inches of good soil and broken 
sod, then several inches of well-rotted manure, more soil, 
another layer of manure, and finish it off with a top-dressing of 
fine rich soil. The bottom layer must not exceed two inches. 

If the natural soil is clay, mix with it one-fourth part of 
sand before using it in layers with the manure, and omit the 
ashes at the bottom. If the natural soil is sandy, some of it 
may be used by mixing one part of it with three parts of clay 
before adding the manure and some rich soil. 

If the natural soil is good loam, dig it out just the same, in 
order to remove all stones and to intermix the manure. 

A bed for annuals alone need not be enriched for more than 
one foot in depth. 

Drain wet land where a garden is to be made. Occasionally 
in early spring or autumn sprinkle air-slaked lime around but 
not on top of the plants. Lime not only sweetens soil, but helps 
to rid it of insect pests. 

11 



PART TWO 
THE GARDEN RECORD 



MY GARDEN 

A garden is a lovesome thing, God wot! 
Rose plot. 

Fringed pool, 
Ferned grot — 
The veriest school of peace; and yet the fool 

Contends that God is not — 
Not God! in gardens! when the eve is cool? 
Nay, but I have a sign; 
'Tis very sure God walks in mine. 

Thomas Edward Brown. 



PART TWO— THE GARDEN RECORD 

IV 
SEPTEMBER 

If you ask why I begin this record of the flower seasons at the 
end of summer, I will tell you that this is the month of spring- 
hopes in the gardener's dreamland, the time to plan for the next 
far away birth-time of flowers, when gardens burst forth in blos- 
som and perfume after the long, deep sleep. 

This is also resting-time in the harvest sunsliine, a breathing 
space when the summer's work is done and we revel in the fruits 
of our labor. The birds, too, no longer toil, but feast and play 
and murmur in the tree-tops. The bolder ones — Goldfinch, 
singing on wing his joyous melody of content, and Ruby- 
Throat Hummingbird — fearlessly invade this domain, revelling 
in the nectar of every flower, and vying with bumblebees and 
butterflies in their happy right to everything. 

It is mid-September before we need cease our all-day idling 
in the garden. 

Practical Hints for Work 

planting and transplanting 
September 15th. 

After the fifteenth there is work to be done in preparation 
for another summer. In an established garden but little can 
be accomplished within the crowded borders until after a killing 
frost, but in new beds planting is a part of the programme in 
gardendom until November 1st. 

From now until October 15th most of the hardy plants may 
be moved; after October 15th few people care to risk moving 

15 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 

anything but shrubs and trees and summer-flowering Lily 
bulbs. 

The earlier it is done the better, in order that the roots may 
become well established before frost. Hardy perennials and 
biennials may also be planted in early spring if necessary. 

SPECIAL ADVICE ABOUT CERTAIN PLANTS 

For safety there are a few rules to be remembered: never 
move in autumn hardy Chrysanthemums, Anemone Japonica, 
Yuccas, late Tritomas, Magnolias, and Althaeas; wait till April. 

The young plants of Hollyhocks, Foxglove, Hardy Gail- 
lardia, Sweet William, and Clove Pinks should be transplanted 
by September 20th, otherwise it is unwise to disturb them until 
early spring; even when older they are not always safely moved 
much after this date, especially where winters are severe. 

In a much-exposed garden, if a cold-frame is available, winter 
under glass those plants just named above, when they have 
been started in the seed-bed the past spring or summer. Cam- 
panula, Pansies, and Snapdragon, besides, generally require 
this sort of protection. After November 1st spread about 
some fine manure, not quite covering them, and give them 
a light litter of leaves; by December 10th fasten down the glass 
frame. In weather when the temperature is over 35 degrees 
above zero, admit some fresh air in daytime. 

PLANT MAY AND EARLY JUNE BLOOMERS 

To obtain plentiful blossoms the first season, Oriental 
Poppies and other early bloomers should be moved, if possible, 
by the fifteenth of September. 

Paeonies require, like Roses, the richest, deep soil beneath 
them, and must be covered by soil only three inches above the 
crown. They give but one or two flowers the first year after 

16 



SEPTEMBER 

being moved. Manure now all old Paeonies, and divide large 
clumps every six or seven years. 

GENERAL WORK 

Gather what is left in summer seed-pods if you wish to 
avoid buying seeds. 

Remove dead stalks. 

Stake up late-blooming plants. 

Transplant Pansies. 

Sow grass seed where grass is needed. Sow Silene, Bluets 
and Larkspur seeds in open ground in early September. 

Also sow in the open ground annual Poppy seeds and 
Forget-me-nots (or sow the latter in August) for another year. 
Both require some moisture. Poppies need sun, Forget-me- 
nots need partial shade. The earliest blooming spring bulbs 
are set out by September 15th, as explained on a later Sep- 
tember page. 

The Flowers of September 



FIRST FLOWERING IN SEPTEMBER 



AVERAGE 

HEIGHT 

5 ft. 



Vine 
2 ft. 



September 1st. 

Pyrethrum ulig inosum . 
Late Aster (annual) . . 

Late Phlox 

Clematis paniculata . . . 
Roses, ever-blooming. . 

September 15th. 

Hardy Asters 2-5 ft. 

Helianthus Max, etc 5 

Delphinium (late bloom) 3 
Anemone Japonica (or 

earlier) 2 

Cosmos (Sept. 25 or later) 6 " 



COLOR 

white 
various 

white 



various 
yellow 
various 



BLOOM HARDINESS 

4 wks. 
4 " 
4 " 
4 " 
4 " 



till frost 



white, pink 
white, pink, red 



h.p. 
h. a. 
h.p. 
h.p. 
t. p. 



h.p. 
h.p. 
h.p. 

h.p. 
h. a. 



17 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 

BLOOM CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS MONTHS 

•fGypsophila, fVeronica, fCardinal Flower, Purple Heli- 
chrysum, -j-Monarda, fHyacinthus, fPhysostegia, fClematis 
Davidiana, Scabiosa, Lobelia, early Cosmos, Nicotiana, Portu- 
laca, Sweet Alyssum, Ageratum, Helenium, Stokesia, Larkspur, 
Calliopsis, Golden Glow, Arctotis, Verbena, Salpiglossis, annual 
Gaillardia, hardy Gaillardia, Stock, Zinnia, Marigold, annual 
Chrysanthemum, Petunia, Geranium, Achillea Pearl, Nastur- 
tium, Dianthus, Snapdragon, Coreopsis, Hunnemannia, Canna, 
Celosia, f Lilies, Salvia, Sunflower, Calendula, fLiatris, Begonia, 
dwarf Convolvulus, Lavatera, Toreuia, Aconitum Nap, Didiscus. 

FRAGRANCE 

September 5th. 

It is a month since some of these blossoms first came into 
bloom. Most have been flowering even longer, and linger on 
as if loath to leave an earth so fair. If the season is not too 
dry, the ripeness of summer gives the fulness of color and vigor 
to the heavy wealth of flowers nodding now to right and to 
left as we walk along the garden paths. In the upper part of 
my terraced garden — at twilight and evening especially — the air 
even beyond the garden limits is filled with odors of Box and 
LiUes, mingled with Phlox and fragrant Nicotiana afiinis. 
Down in the lower garden, Stock, Petunia, Phlox, and Clematis 
paniculata weight the air with fragrance, till I wonder whether 
the upper or the lower terrace holds the more intoxicating per- 
fumes. Only the bee could tell, for by them is he allured. 

COLOR 

The color scheme is too extensive a subject for this little 

volume, and but one late summer garden-bed can be described 

t Die early in September. 
18 



SEPTEMBER 

by way of suggestion : A luxuriant curtain of Clematis paniculata 
clambering high over a ten-foot fence gives a beautiful milky 
background to a line of alternate groups of crimson plume 
Celosias, tall pink Hibiscus Moscheutos, and pink Physostegias, 
the last two offering inviting drinking cups to the honey-sippers. 
In front of them is a long row of golden Zinnias, before which 
grows a maze of many colored Asters and Sweet Scabiosas, while 
the border-front is banded with the little bright-hued Portulacas 
that seem to catch all the light and color afloat in the air where- 
with to sparkle. 

Earlier this bed (ten feet wide) contained the bloom of 
Lilium candidum and Campanulas. 

To quote another's suggestion: 

"A progression of color in a mixed border might begin with 
strong blues, light and dark, grouped with white and pale 
yellow, passing on to pink, then to rose color, crimson, and the 
strongest scarlet, leading to orange and bright yellow. A paler 
yellow followed by white would distantly connect the warm 
colors with the lilacs and purples, and a colder white would 
combine them pleasantly with low-growing plants with cool- 
colored leaves." 

Still another good suggestion for a larger garden is to assign 
certain colors to different parts of the beds throughout the 
flowering season. For instance, keep one or more sections for 
innk, beginning with May's pink Phlox, pink Pyrethrum, and 
pink Columbine, June's pink Foxglove, pink Sweet William, 
etc., and so on till October. 

It would be almost impossible for a beginner to lay out a 
garden with an idea of having this color effect at first. He 
must first become acquainted with the habits and peculiarities 
of his flowers. 



19 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 

Bulbs Planted in September 

LILIES 

Lilium candidum, the earliest summer (June) tall Lily, 
should be planted as near September 10th as possible, because 
the bulbs, which increase rapidly, make an autumn growth. 
These lilies require full sun. 

Other Lilies are planted about October 25th, or in early 
spring. 

Most Lilies need a light, rich, deep, well drained soil. They 
do their best where there is some moisture. Lihum speciosum 
rubrum should grow in partial shade; the others must be only 
somewhat sun-protected by the low foliage of surrounding 
plants, or mulched with moss, old manure, or leaves, so that 
the ground will not dry out about them. In planting, it is best 
to set the Lily bulb in a handful of sand. Manure must not 
come in contact with bulbs. 

Lilium Canadense, L. superbum, and L. tigrinum will grow 
almost anywhere. 

Plant Lilies in groups of three or six or more, or in a row, 
about ten inches apart, and set in holes from six to eight inches 
deep, depending on their size. When Lilies need to be separated 
it should be done after the stalks have withered. 

EARLY SPRING BULBS 

Snowdrops, Chionodoxas, Scillas, Crocuses, Narcissi, or 
Daffodils, and Jonquils do their best growing in the grass or 
wild garden in partial shade, in rich, deep, stiff, natural soil. 
Daffodils thrive also in the full sun and near water. Plant 
spring bulbs by September 15th. 

Bulbs of a kind must be set at regular depths to come up 

evenly. 

20 



SEPTEMBER 

Set Crocuses, Scillas, and Snowdrops three inches apart; 
Crocuses in holes three inches deep, Scillas and Snowdrops four 
inches deep. Their tops must not be cut off for at least three 
weeks after bloom ceases — not until leaves turn yellow. 

Narcissi, or Daffodils and Jonquils in grass must grow 
only where the grass can be left undisturbed by the scythe until 
June 25th. Daffodils are planted six or seven inches deep. 
Jonquils five inches deep, and ten inches apart. 

Tulips and Hyacinths, following Daffodils in the spring 
procession, are not planted until October. 

For Lilies-of-the- Valley, see Practical Hints for October and 
June. 

All bulbs will increase in number if their tops are left undis- 
turbed until they are yellow, when they are ripened. 

Table for Bulb-Plantinq 

Lilies, three times depth of bulb 

(large bulbs) 7-8 inches deep. 10 inches apart. 

Lilies (small bulbs) 6 " " 10 

Daffodils 7 " " 10 

Hyacinths 7 " " 5 " " 

TuHps 6 " " 5 " " 

Jonquils 5 " " 6 " " 

Chionodoxas 5 " " 6 " " 

Crocuses 3 " " 3 " " 

Scillas 4 " " 3 " " 

Snowdrops 4 " " 3 " " 

Anemones 3 " " 6 " " 



21 



It was a day that sent into the heart 
A summer feeling; even the insect swarms 
From their dark nooks and coverts issued forth. 
To sport thro' one day of existence more; 
The soUtary primrose on the bank 
Seem'd as though now it had no cause to mourn 
Its bleak autumnal birth, while it partook 
The universal blessing. 

South EY. 



OCTOBER 

Summer is at rest by the first of this month, and though 
some of its color lingers still, it is a matter of only a few days 
before the change which heralds winter's approach will wipe out 
every plant but Marigolds and hardy Chrysanthemums. 

Providing the season has not been too dry, the September 
flowers are with us still, and even August loans some garden 
favorites. October's airy, dainty "Daisies," the pink, white, 
and red Cosmos, are now waving their glory in the face of the 
coming frost, and the wax-like Anemone Japonica, far too 
beautiful to meet an early death, is another precious blossom 
gathered hurriedly for the flower-bowls indoors. 

By October 10th the first breath of King Frost has swept the 
garden and taken from it all the color and fragrance that had 
lingered on so long. Nothing remains there; but outside, the 
Garden of Trees, in robes of gold and crimson, will give us a 
color feast for yet awhile. 

There are rare warm days ahead, although few, and a period 
at the end of the month when the hardy Chrysanthemums blos- 
som forth in autumn tints to thrive gayly even with snowflakes 
on their sturdy petals, but with them ends this month of change, 
closing the flower season. 

Practical Hints for Work 

^ . , , . tender plants 

October 1st. 

Take into the house all tender plants. Geraniums, etc., 

that are to be saved from the frost for house culture. Geraniums 

23 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 

should be hung, free from soil, in a moderate temperature until 
spring, when they are cut back and planted again. 

Before hard frost, also, the tuberous Begonias should be 
lifted, dried, and stored in the cellar in a box of coal ashes or 
sand, and out of danger from the frost. 

HARDY PLANTS 

Dig up and divide the roots of plants that are too large; 
reset them in fresh soil and add manure. This is necessary 
every three or four years in order to produce better flowers; 
finish transplanting by October 15th, if possible. 

Shrubs are the exception, as they can be moved after the 
leaves begin to fall (or in early spring). 

BULBS 

Tulips and Hyacinths should be planted between the first and 
the fifteenth. If the flower-beds where they are to go have been 
occupied all summer, well-rotted cow manure should be dug in a 
foot deep, with care not to disturb the roots of hardy plants or 
to let manure come in contact with the bulbs. 

These bulbs require light, rich soil, and sun. The earth 
should not be pressed too closely over them. Bulbs of a kind 
must be set at regular depths, or else they will come up un- 
evenly. Set them five inches apart. Tulips in six inch holes. 
Hyacinths in seven inch holes. 

Many Tulips can be left in the ground, preferably in the 
grass near the Daffodils, and if undisturbed they will increase 
where the soil is favorable to them. Tops must not be cut down 
or bulbs moved until leaves begin to fade. 

October 15th. general work 

After the killing frost the garden must be clean swept. 
Take up bulbs of Dahlias, Gladioli, and Cannas, and as 

24 



OCTOBER 

soon as they are dry place them in boxes or barrels in a moderate, 
even temperature. 

Label unmarked plants on deep-driven stakes. Burn the 
light chaff, and keep the stalks of taller plants for covering the 
beds in late November. 

Gather the remaining seeds for keepsakes, to renew the 
garden favorites. 

If not already done, dig manure in around the plants that 
make an early start — Pseonies, Phlox, Iris, Bleeding Heart, 
Columbine, Valerian, Hollyhocks, etc. 

Plant LiHes-of-the- Valley in deep, stiff, rich soil, each pip 
one inch apart and three inches deep. 

Plant bulbs of Lilium speciosum, L. auratum, etc., now or 
about March 25th. 

The Flowers of October 
first flowering in october 

AVERAGE HARDI- 

HEIGHT COLOR BLOOM NESS 

Cosmos (sometimes earlier) . 5 ft. red, wh.,pk. till frost h. a. 

Aconitum Fischeri " " , 2 " blue " " h. p. 

Tritoma Uvaria grand 3 " red " " h. h. p. 

Chrysanthemum, late Oct. or 

Nov. 1st 2 " various " " h. p. 

BLOOM CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS MONTHS 

Asters, Stock, Petunia, Salvia, Dahlia, annual Sunflower, 
Helichrysum, Zinnia, Anemone Japonica, Scabiosa, Arctotis, 
Nicotiana, Gaillardias, Dianthus, Nasturtium, Canna, Celosia, 
Portulaca, Snapdragon, Sweet Alyssum, Ageratum, Coreopsis, 
Convolvulus (dwarf), Hunnemannia, Helianthus, Helenium, 
Marigold, Calendula, Larkspur, Achillea Pearl, Roses, Didiscus. 



Die to the root, sweet flower. 
If so God wills, die even to the root; 
Live there awhile, an uncomplaining mute. 
Blank life, with darkness wrapp'd about thy head, 
And fear not for the silence round thee spread. 
This is no grave, though thou among the dead 
Art counted, but the Hiding-place of Power. 

Die to the root, sweet flower 

Anon. 



VI 
NOVEMBER 

The garden has gone to sleep! Six weeks ago the birds 
ceased to sing over it, and since that signal the flowers have 
been slipping away to dreamland, and even the warm breath of 
Indian summer's sunshine cannot tempt them above ground. 
In the first week of this month a snow-flurry played over the 
heads of the lonely Chrysanthemums, but they bowed serenely 
and tossed their brilliant colors bravely until they were ready 
to go. 

In Indian summer the garden is a lonesome place. Chrysan- 
themums are passed, and the earth and trees are laid bare; yel- 
low haze and summer-like air hover silently over empty borders. 

November's garden work is chiefly for protection against 
cold, until December places the final covering over the sleepers 
— a white, downy counterpane of snow. All is at rest, and not 
to be aroused until springtime, with the first call. of meadow- 
lark and robin. 

Practical Hints for Work 

covering 

Late November is the time for covering the garden. 

About the jijteenth, six or eight inches of manure may be 
laid over the hardy bed to good advantage, and about the 
twenty-fjfih, a light layer of leaves, kept in place by plenty of 
stalks or boughs, should be spread on top. 

27 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 

The tender plants, however, such as tender Roses, need the 
manure and a deeper covering (nearly three feet) of leaves or 
straw. 

Too many leaves are injurious to certain plants, seeming to 
sweat and to rot them. Plants are covered, not so much to 
keep the cold out of the ground as to prevent the too frequent 
thawing and cracking of the ground in the warmer days, which 
injures the roots and bulbs. Even extreme cold affects but few 
of the hardy perennials if they are lightly covered. 

Foxgloves, Sweet Williams, Clove Pinks, and Yuccas should 
not be covered over completely. They seem to need some fresh 
air. 

If the garden holds an exposed position. Althaeas are better 
for a light covering above the roots, and the Crimson Ramblers, 
which are sometimes killed by exposure to severe cold, can 
be strapped to the ground and covered. In most gardens it is 
unnecessary, as Ramblers are naturally hardy. 

Do not cover too early, or the htter may become an abode for 
mice. Cover only after the ground has frozen soUd. 

SPRAYING 

Spray fruit trees, etc., affected with scale. 
The Flowers of November 

HEIGHT COLOR BLOOM 

Chrysanthemums 3 ft. various 3 weeks hardy 

Chrysanthemums, Pompoiie. — ^This variety blooms the last of 
October. It may be found at any dealer's. The flowers are 
smaller than those of the other variety. 

Chrysanthemums, the Old-fashioned. — This variety, often 
seen growing against old farm-houses, in colors of white, gold, 
deep rose, or rich red, is more difficult to secure. 

28 



MID-WINTER 



UNDER THE 5NOW 

It is pleasant to think, just under the snow. 
That stretches so bleak and blank and cold. 

Are beauty and warmth that we cannot know, — 
Green fields and leaves and blossoms of gold. 

Yes, under this frozen and dumb expanse, 

Ungladdened by bee or bird or flower, 
A world where the leaping fountains glance, 

And the buds expand, is waiting its hour. 

And often now when the skies are wild. 

And hoarse and sullen the night winds blow. 

And lanes and hollows with drifts are piled, 
I think of the violets under the snow; 

I look in the wild-flower's tremulous eye, 
I hear the chirp of the ground bird brown; 

A breath from the budding grove steals by, 
And the swallows are dipping above the town. 

So there, from the outer sense concealed. 

It lies, shut in by a veil of snow; 
But there, to the inward eye revealed. 

Are boughs that blossom, and flowers that glow. 

The lily shines on its bending stem. 

The crocus opens its April gold. 
And the rose up-tosses its diadem 

Against the floor of the winter's cold. 

T. Hempstead. 



31 



All nature seems at work. Slugs leave their lair; 

The bees are stirring — birds are on the wing, 
And Winter, slumbering in the open air. 

Wears on his smiling face a dream of Spring. 

Coleridge. 

First came the forward darlings of the Spring; 
Snowdrops, and violets, and daisies white. 
The year's faint smiles before its burst of mirth, 
The soft sweet-breathing babies of the earth. 

Frances A. Kemble. 



VII 
MARCH 

Spring is in the air! The birds and zephyrs proclaim it, 
and down in the woods there are signs of the spirit of hfe astir 
in the underground dreamers. 

The tiny heralds of spring — Snowdrops, Chionodoxas, Cro- 
cuses, and Scillas — arrive in March and are the advance guard 
of the floral procession, strewing the way with waxen buds, and 
bringing welcome tidings of the flower-train to follow. Robins, 
song sparrows, bluebirds, and meadowlarks sound the bugle- 
notes over these early messengers, and the gardener is about 
again, glimpsing below and above for signs of renewed life. 

Practical Hints for Work 

before frost is out of the ground 
March 1st. 

In February and March, trees and shrubs and vines affected 
by scale should be sprayed. 

A tree may be moved when the frost is in the ground and 
the roots are "balled," or it may be moved later, preferably 
just before budding. 

Manure shrubs, vines, and grass. 

Pruning. — Cut off limbs of fruit trees where such pruning 
is necessary. 

Prune hardy Roses early. 

Prune considerably Hydrangea paniculata, but with all other 
shrubs remove only the dead wood, and cut back overgrown 

33 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 

shoots to preserve the proper form of the bushes, without 
actually pruning them at this season. 

Seeds. — As soon as possible sow seeds under glass or in 
window-boxes, and watch these seedlings closely. Do not allow 
them to be chilled or to dry out; neither should they be too much 
soaked or they will " damp off." (See chapter on The Seed-bed.) 

AFTER FROST IS OUT OF THE GROUND 

March \5th. 

As soon as the frost is out of the ground plant Sweet Peas 
five inches deep. 

Grass seeds may be sown, and sod rolled. 

Sow the seeds of Annual Poppies and Silene Pendula, if not 
done in the early autumn, which is the best time. 

Shrubs and Roses. — Move Magnolias and Althaeas ; also Box 
and Privet for hedges ; other shrubs, small trees and vines, may 
all be moved now or later. 

Hardy Roses may be parti ally uncovered . They can be planted 
by March 25th, and every year they should be cut back to within one 
and one-half feet (or less) of the ground. (See chapter on Roses.) 

General Work. — Begin to clean up. 

New garden-beds may be made. 

Gradually lift the heaviest part of the covering from the 
hardy plants. At the end of the month Pseonies, Irises, Fox- 
gloves, Oriental Poppies, Valerian, Phloxes, etc., should be freed 
from all litter, unless it is unseasonably cold. 

The Flowers of March 

HEIGHT COLORS HARDINESS 

Snowdrops 4 inches white hardy bulbs 

Chionodoxas 4 " blue " " 

Crocuses 4 " various " " 

Scillas 6 " " 

The First Wild Flowers. 

34 



I wandered lonely as a cloud 

That floats on high o'er vales and hills. 
When all at once I saw a crowd, 

A host of golden daffodils; 
Beside the lake, beneath the trees. 
Fluttering and dancing on the breeze. 
Continuous as the stars that shine 

And twinkle on the milky way. 
They stretched in never-ending hue 

Along the margin of a bay; 
Ten thousand saw I at a glance, 
Tossing their heads in sprightly dance. 

Wordsworth. 



VIII 
APRIL 

Color and life are fast returning to the Willows and Red 
Maples. 

Misty green and hazy yellow tinge the landscape. Many of 
the wood-plants are up, and in the garden by April 1st Paeonies 
are pushing through the soil. 

It is the month of Daffodils, and through their rapid increase 
their number is redoubled each year. Early TuHps, too, are 
here on the 15th. 

Animal Ufe abounds toward the end of the month, and the 
garden's best friends, birds, bees, toads, and butterflies, almost 
as welcome and needful to plant-life as sunshine and rain, busily 
share our interest in the green things. Frogs are piping by the 
stream, early birds are mating, and the love-song begins. 

Practical Hints for Work 
April 1st. 

If frost is out of the ground, remove all litter from hardy 
beds and from Pansies. 

Finish spraying affected trees, shrubs, and vines. 

If Rose plants and vines have scaly crust on them, rub 
them carefully with a sponge or fine brush dipped in a weak solu- 
tion of kerosene emulsion, before they have shown sign of buds. 

Finish neglected March work. 

Manure shrubs and vines every other year. In alternate 
years dig in old leaves early about them, or if economy is un- 
necessary, give manure annually. 

37 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 

Finish moving hardy Roses, and manure all Roses by April 
1st, if possible. 

Buy new hardy biennials and perennials early this month. 
The later they are moved the fewer flowers they will yield the 
same season. Keep the newly planted late May and early 
June varieties damp if you want blossoms the coming months, 
and even then some will not bloom till another year. 

Prune grape-vines early. Prune back the tender Roses to a 
height of one foot, and uncover them. 

SEEDS SOWN 

Finish sowing seeds of annuals under glass. 

Certain hardy annuals may be sown in the open ground by 
the 15th, e. g., Cornflowers, Candytufts, Sunflowers, etc. (Read 
the chapter on Seeds of Annuals.) Prepare the ground for seeds 
by enriching and pulverizing the soil. 

April 15th. 

Sow hardy perennial seeds in the open ground if they were 
not sown earlier under glass; or sow them in July or August. 

Not later than April sow Hollyhocks (h. p.). Foxgloves, 
(h. p.). Campanula (h. b.), and other biennial seeds. They will 
not bloom until next year. When sown as late as July or 
August perennials and biennials will make only small plants 
for the next season. 

PLANTING 

Set out Pansy plants from the frame-bed or greenhouse. 

Dig deep, turning in the manure with the soil where all 
hardy plants are up, but beware lest, digging near the invisible 
things, something is killed underground. 

After hardy perennial shoots are a few inches high, trans- 

38 



APRIL 

plant and divide roots where necessary, if it was not done in the 
autumn. '^ 

Two tablespoonfuls of fine bone-meal or wood ashes stirred 
in lightly around each of the plants will improve their flowers. 

Transplant tender Roses. 

Continue planting hardy flowers. 

SPRAYING 

Spray Roses when the first small leaves appear with whale- 
oil soap or kerosene emulsion. Do not apply these too strong. 

Spray with Bordeaux mixture the plants that have a tendency 
to rust or mildew— Hollyhocks, Phlox, Delphinium, and Aconi- 
tum are sometimes affected ; if previously diseased spray before 
the first signs of the trouble appear, and dig in a httle dry 
Bordeaux around the crown of the plant. 

SEED-BED 

All this month carefully tend the seedlings started under 
glass, and transplant them at the proper time. Further in- 
structions on this subject are to be found in the chapter on 
The Seed-bed. 



The Flowers of April 



FLOWERING IN APRIL 

HARDI- 

HEIGHT COLOR BLOOM NESS 

Tulips. 12 inches various 4 wks. hardy bulbs 

Daffodils (Narcissi) 12 " wh., yellow 4 " 

Jonquils (Narcissi). 10 " yellow 4 " " 

Hyacinths 10 " various 4 " " 

Pansies 8 " " 12 " h. a. 

Wild Flowers 



MAY 

And the Spring arose on the garden fair, 

Like the Spirit of Love feU every where; 

And each flower and herb on Earth's dark breast 

Rose from the dreams of its wintry rest. 

And the sinuous paths of lawn and of moss, 
Which led through the garden along and across, 
Some open at once to the sun and the breeze, 
Some lost among bowers of blossoming trees. 

Were all paved with daisies and delicate bells 
As fair as the fabulous asphodels, 
And flowrets which drooping as day drooped too 
Fell into pavilions, white, purple, and blue. 
To roof the glow-worm from the evening dew. 

Shelley. 



IX 

MAY 

In early May, for a fortnight, blossoms are overhead. 

Cherry-bloom is passing, covering the ground with snow- 
flakes; Apple-blossoms are opening, and the green landscape 
is wreathed in its snowy fruit trees. It is the bumblebees' 
season of revelry, when thousands of them hover amid the 
blossoms in a grand droning chorus, and sip from perfumed 
chalices. 

May is also the time of fairest shrubs and of bird-song, but 
not until the end of the month is the gardener's dream realized 
in the first burst of radiant bloom in the hardy beds. 

Practical Hints for Work 
May \st. 

Some gardens bloom earlier than others, depending on soil 
and location. 

TREATMENT OF HARDY PLANTS 

Probably by May 1st, in the vicinity of New York, all the 
hardy plants but Anemone Japonica are above ground; and 
if this is the case, finish digging in the winter's covering of 
manure. It need never be wasted, and if necessary to rake off 
some of it, keep it for mulching LiUes, etc. The best of its 
value as a fertihzer is gone. 

Transplanting of hardy plants may still be done (until the 
fifteenth) if the holes are soaked and the plants afterward kept 

41 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 

watered. Spring-planted summer-blooming things will prob- 
ably not flower as well the first season as those that were 
autumn-planted. 

If the season is dry, soak thoroughly, and mulch with grass- 
cuttings or old leaves, etc., the Sweet Peas, Lilies, and Pentste- 
mons. Water other plants too. Slight sprinkling is useless; 
the ground must be soaked, and not earlier than 4 p.m., so that 
the sun will not prevent the plants from getting the full benefit 
of the wetting. 

The bulbs of Dahlias, Cannas, and Gladioli may be set out 
by May 1st, or as late as July 1st; except in the case of Cannas, 
the somewhat later planting is preferable. 

PESTS 

May 15th. 

If rust or mildew has appeared on anything, spray with 
Bordeaux mixture every other week till July. Dig in a little 
dry Bordeaux around the crown of the plant. 

If Roses are threatened treat them weekly with insecti- 
cides. One class of pests succumb to oily applications, an- 
other class to arsenical poisons. (See chapter on Roses.) 

Look for signs of cutworms in withering, drooping stalks. 
The worm is generally found a half-inch under soil, near or 
at the base of a stalk. Kill it and surround the plants with 
the powdered ashes of range coal, or use a solution of one 
ounce of saltpetre to one gallon of water, sprinkled about the 
base of the plants. 

THE SOIL FOR ANNUALS 

Prepare in rich earth the beds for the annuals. Dig deep, 
turning under the top soil ; then cover the bed with a layer of 
manure, and dig that under not too deeply. Make the top of 
the bed smooth with pulverized soil, and if the earth is not rich 

42 



MAY 

enough sprinkle the top of it with sheep's manure; turn it un- 
der Hghtly, water it well, and the bed is ready for seeds or for 
small plants. 

TRANSPLANTING YOUNG PLANTS 

Toward the last of the month transplant the hardier 
annuals from the seed-beds to permanent positions. 

If there are perennials in the seed-beds which are too young 
to flower until another year, keep them there with the young 
biennials until autumn or the following spring, or else they may 
be smothered in the crowded border of larger plants. 

The Flowers of May 



FIRST FLOWERING IN MAY 

AVERAGE 

May 1st. HEIGHT COLOR 

Phlox subulata 4 in. white, pink 

Bellis perennis (English 

Daisy) 6 " white, pink 

Doronicum 1^ ft. yellow 

Saxifraga cordif olia 1 " pink 

Saxifraga pyramidalis .... 2 " white 

Saxifraga ligulata 1 " " 

Anemone coronaria 6 in.-l ft. white, purple 

Anemone apennina. 4-9 in. blue, white 

Lindelofia 2 ft. blue 

Anthericum 2 " white 

Bluebell (Mertensia) 1^ " blue 

Late Tulip and Hya- 
cinth 1 " various 

Lily-of -the- Valley (outside 

of garden) 8 in. white 

Lychnis Haageana 1 ft. scarlet 

Pentstemon grandiflorum 2 " blue 

Sweet Rocket 1^ " lilac 

Bleeding Heart 2 " pink 

43 





HARDI 


BLOOM 


NESS 


3wks. 


h.p. 


4 " 


h.p. 


4 " 


h.p. 


4 " 


h.p. 


2 " 


h.p. 


4 " 


h.p. 


5 " 


h.p. 


5 " 


h.p. 


4 " 


h.p. 


6 " 


h.p. 


6 " 


h.p. 


3 " 


h.p. 


3 " 


h.p. 


4 " 


h.p. 


6 " 


h.p. 


4 " 


h.p. 


5 " 


h.p. 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 



FIRST FLOWERING IN MAY 
AVERAGE 

May 1 5th. height color bloom 

Phlox Carolina 1 ft. rosy red 5 wks. 

German Iris 2 " various 4 " 

Columbine 3 " " 6 " 

Ranunculus aconitifolius 

fl.pl 2 " white 6 " 

Ranunculus acmfl.pl... 2 " yellow 6 " 
Paeony oflScinalis (early 

variety) 2^ " deep red 3 " 

Valerian (or Old-fashioned 

Garden Heliotrope) .... 4 " white 4 " 

Salvia pratensis 2 " blue 4 " 

Flags (outside of garden) 2 " purple 3 " 

Pyrethrum 2 " various 5 " 

Silene pendula 1|- " white, red, pink 4 " 

Lupinus polyphyllus .... 2-3 " various 4 " 

Myrtle creeper blue 4 " 

Lemon Lily (Hemerocallis) \\ ft. yellow 4 " 

Clove Pinks 10 in. white, pink 4 " 

Achillea tomentosa 1 ft. yellow 4 " 

Primroses 1 " various 4 " 



HARDI- 
NESS 

h.p. 
h.p. 
h.p. 

h.p. 
h.p. 

h.p. 

h.p. 
h.p. 
h.p. 
h.p. 

h. a. 
h.p. 
h.p. 
h.p. 
h.p. 
h.p. 
h.p. 



BLOOM CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS MONTH 

Daffodils, Pansies, Violets, Tulips, Jonquils, Hyacinths. 



44 



Soon will the high Midsummer pomps come on, 

Soon will the musk carnations break and swell. 
Soon shall we have gold-dusted snapdragon; 

Sweet-William with his homely cottage-smell. 
And stocks in fragrant blow; 

Roses that down the alleys shine afar. 
And open, jasmine-muffled lattices. 
And groups under the dreaming garden-trees, 

And the full moon and the white evening-star. 

Matthew Arnold, 



X 

JUNE 

June is the queen of all the months. May's later blossoms 
linger to bloom in the June garden near the choicest flowers of 
summer and through the longest and fairest days of the year. 

Perfumes that are only June's commingle and follow the 
winds even through open windows, coming as fragrant mes- 
sengers from Roses, Honeysuckle, Clove Pinks, and old-time 
Garden Hehotrope. 

June brings the Roses' rivals too, deep, ardent Paeonies, and, 

"Here are Sweet Peas on tiptoe for a flight, 
With wings of gentle flush o'er delicate white, 
And taper fingers catching at all things, 
To bind them all about with tiny rings." 

Practical Hints for Work 

late-sown seeds 
June 1st. 

Sow seeds of Portulaca out of doors; sow also Salvia if 
it has not been started earlier under glass, which is the better 
way. These are the last annuals to be sown. 

PLANTING OUT 

Finish transplanting from cold-frame or hot-bed or window 
boxes, and, if possible, do this when the ground is rain-soaked 

and the weather cloudy. 

47 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 

Bedding-out plants — tender annuals like tuberous-rooted 
Begonias, Geraniums, Heliotrope, and Fuchsias are all set out 
now, or by June 15tli at the latest. Transplanting time is 
supposed to be over for these plants, but they may be moved 
later if they are watered and shaded for a few days afterwards. 

STAKING, PINCHING BACK, ETC. 

Staking is important for the plants liable to be blown over 
and broken by high winds. Golden Glow needs six-foot stakes. 

By June 1st, if not sooner, Sweet Peas need the brush or 
wire trellis. 

Strings must not be tied too tight about branches of any 
plants. 

Pinch off the tops of hardy Chrysanthemums, Dahlias, 
Salvia, Cosmos, and Zinnias, to make them bushy. (See 
chapter Notes on Popular Plants.) 

Weed the beds, and loosen the soil with a hoe. 

Water shallow-rooted plants in drought, especially annuals. 

SPRAYING 

Watch for signs of destructive insects and diseases, and do 
not let them get ahead of you. 

If you cannot account for a plant's bad condition, spray it 
with Bordeaux mixture, and a few days later spray it with 
tobacco water. Repeat this treatment the following week. 

Spray Roses as directed in chapter on Roses. 

GENERAL WORK 

June 15th. 

Allow but few flowers to form seed-pods if continued bloom 
is desired. 

Bring Tulip and Hyacinth bulbs into the cellar. 

48 



JUNE 

Dig in lightly some wood ashes around Asters and hardy 
Chrysanthemums. 

The Daffodil bulbs have now ripened, and their foliage with 
the grass over them may be cut by June 25th. 

Enrich Lily-of-the- Valley bed if the bloom was not satis- 
factory. Keep it weeded, and if in a semi-sunny position and 
not thickly grown, mulch the bed with grass cuttings. 

Thin out the young plants that have come up too thickly from 
seeds sown out doors, i. e.. Petunia, Candytuft, Portulaca, etc. 

To keep moisture about the roots of plants, continue to 
loosen the top soil frequently 

PRUNING 

Prune shrubs that have finished blooming, but only as much 
as they require it. If a shrub has foliage only at the top, 
prune it back severely, otherwise cut out only dead wood, and 
cut off the small end branches that have borne the blossoms; 
remove also over-crowding branches, and cut back one-third of 
each of those new shoots that have grown too long. Cut out 
suckers which take the strength from branches that would 
otherwise bloom freely. 

Read books on pruning. 

The Flowers of June 
first flowering in june 

AVERAGE 
June 1st. HEIGHT COLOR 

Forget-me-not 8 in. blue 

Pseonies 3 ft. various 

Roses (all) 1-6 " 

Oriental Poppies 3 " red, pink, white 

Foxglove (treat as h. b.) . . 3 " various 

49 





HARDI- 


(LOOM 


NESS 


4 wks. 


h.p. 


3 " 




4 " 
3 " 

5 '• 


h.p.-t.p, 
h.p. 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 



FIRST FLOWERING IN JUNE 

AVERAGE 

June \st. HEIGHT COLOR 

Sweet William 1^ ft. various 

Valerian, new variety. .. . 2 " white, pink 

Lilium candidum 3 " white 

Caiwpanula 2 " blue, wh., pk. 

Delphinium 3 " blue, white, etc. 

Sweet Sultan 2 " various 

Cornflowers 2 " " 

Lychnis Viscaria 1 " deep red 

Lychnis chalcedonica fl. 

pi., etc 3 " red, white, pink 

Lijchnis dioica rosea 1^ " pink 

Pentstemon diffusus 2 " blue 

Pentstemon Digitalis .... 2 " bluish white 

Pentstemon harhatus tor. . 3 " red 

Japanese Iris 2-3 " various 

Shasta Daisy 1^ " white 

Gaillardia 2 " yellow, red 

June I5th. 
Coreopsis lanceolata gran- 

diflora 2^ " yellow 

Dianthns Pinks 1 " various 

Annual Poppies Ij " " 

Yucca 3 " white 

Phlox sufjruiticosa 2 " white, etc. 

Achillea Pearl 2 " white 

Anthemis 1^ " yellow 

Sweet Peas 5 " various 

Petunias fringed 1 " " 

Petunias common white 

Geraniums 1 " red, white, pink 

Snapdragon (treat ash. a.) 1^ " various 

Spiraea Chinensis, etc. . . . 2-4 " white, pink 

Agrostemma coronaria . . 2 " pink, red, white 

Feverfew, double If " white 

Jacob's Ladder 1 " blue, white 

Crimson Rambler Rose, climbing vine crimson 

The sign * means blooms till frost. 
50 





HARDI- 


ILOOM 


NESS 


5 wks. 


h.p. 


5 " 




4 " 


" 


8 " 


h.b. 


* 


h.p. 


8 " 


h. a. 


8 " 


h. a. 


4 " 


h.p. 


6 " 


" 


4 " 


" 



4 " 


" 


4 " 


it 


* 


« 


* 

* 


h.p. 
h.b. 


2 " 


h. a. 


4 " 
4 " 


h.p. 


* 


" 


8 " 


" 


10 " 


h. a. 


* 


" 


* 


h. h. a, 


* 


t. a. 


* 
3 " 

8 " 


h. h. p. 
h.p. 


10 " 


" 



JUNE 

BLOOM CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS MONTH FOR SEVERAL 

WEEKS 

Pyrethrum, Lemon Lily, Ranunculus, Garden Heliotrope, 
Clove Pinks, Columbine, Pansies, Flags, German Iris, Lupine, 
Blue Salvia, Silene, Lychnis Haageana. 



61 



Hea\'y with sunshine droops the golden-rod, 
And the red pennons of the cardinal flowers 
Hang motionless upon their upright staves. 
The sky is hot and hazy, and the wind. 
Wing-weary with its long flight from the south, 
Unfelt: 

Through the open door 
A drowsy smell of flowers — gray heliotrope, 
And white sweet clover, and shy mignonette — 
Comes faintly in, and silent chorus lends 
To the pervading symphony of peace. 

Whittieb. 



XI 

JULY 

Midsummer's carnival of flowers is celebrated by the 
arrival of the annuals in bloom. They crowd into every 
crack and cranny assigned them, to bloom and bloom and 
bloom till frost. Their long sojourn in the garden makes 
up for the fact that none of them can compete in beauty 
with perennials such as Roses, Pseonies, Irises, and Fox- 
gloves — the advance guard of June — but the annuals will 
fill the borders with color and fragrance for many weeks to 
come. 

July with her annuals and fewer perennials is ushered 
in by the tall Hollyhocks, as dear to the heart of the simplest 
countrywoman in her quaint garden as to the eye of the artist. 
Was ever a garden painted without them ? They are the half- 
way signs in the garden calendar, standing midway between 
the time when Nature begins to stir in March and when the 
sap ceases to flow in autumn. They mark the beginning, 
too, of a respite from our pleasant toil — a leisure time gained 
after untiring ministrations to all these responsive spirits of 
the soil. 

Between July 15th and September 10th there is com- 
paratively little work to do, except weeding, hoeing, and possibly 
watering, and we may gather more blossoms than ever, to send 
to some of the stifled and weary folk whose evening rest can- 
not be found in the cool of a garden. 

53 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 

Practical Hints for Work 

staking, watering, weeding, hoeing 
July 1st. 

Finish staking plants that are inchned to blow over or to 
grow crooked. 

Water plants and shrubs if there is a drought. 

Weed and hoe the ground around plants and shrubs to 
conserve the moisture underneath, and thus avoid frequent 
watering. 

If roots are near the surface, use the fingers to loosen soil 
(e.g., Phlox). 

MIDSUMMER-SOWN HARDY SEEDS 

The seed-bed is now empty, and the soil may be replaced or 
thoroughly enriched in order that hardy perennial seeds may 
be sown after July 15th, if it could not have been done in spring. 

Hollyhocks and Foxgloves, treated as biennials. Campanulas, 
and other biennials, should always be sown earlier. 

Read chapter on Seeds of Hardy Plants for further informa- 
tion regarding them, 

TREATMENT OF ANNUALS 

Trim back the overgrown Pansies, and give them some 
fertilizer. 

Finish thinning out where annual plants have come up 
from seeds sown late in the open ground. 

If any of the annuals look weak and ill nourished, dig in 
lightly around them wood ashes, or sheep's manure, or a 
mixture of both. 

July 15th. 

For continued bloom of Sweet Peas give a treatment of 
liquid manure. Soak the ground thoroughly and mulch it. 

54 



JULY 

If Dahlias are not growing in the best of soil, give them a 
similar treatment, and if thickly grown with leaves and hav- 
ing few buds, remove some of their lower branches. In a moist 
climate and congenial soil Dahlias need no such care. 

PRUNING 

By the fifth, prune back by a few eyes the Rose-bushes that 
have finished blooming for the present and will bear later 
buds. Give treatment as required in chapter on Roses. 

Cut off all fading flowers in the garden to encourage further 
blooming. 

Remove and burn any dead stalks and dead leaves on plants 
or shrubs. 

GENERAL WORK 

Continue to train the extending vines that require it. 
Give treatment of weak kerosene emulsion to shrubs and 
fruit trees if affected with scale. 

The Flowers of July 

FIRST flowering IN JULY 



AVERAGE 

July 1st. HEIGHT 

Hollyhocks (sometimes 

earlier) 5 ft. 

Pentstemon ovatus 2 " 

Platycodon li " 

Stokesia cyanea 2 " 

Monarda 3 " 

Hemerocallis fulva (Day 

Lily) '. 3 " 

Liatris 3 " 

California Poppy 1 " 

Gladiolus (bulb) U " 

55 









HARDI- 


COLOR 


BLOOM 


NESS 


various 


6 


wks. 


h.p. 


purple 
blue, white 


8 
6 


» 


a 


blue 


10 


" 


« 


red 


8 


n 


« 


orange 


4 


« 


<( 


rosy purple 
yellow, etc. 


8 

8 


« 


h. a. 


various 


4 


" 


tender 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 



FIRST FLOWERING IN JULY 

AVERAGE 

July \st. HEIGHT COLOR 

Dahlia 4 ft. various 

Begonia li " 

Hunnemannia 2 " yellow 

Cardinal Flower 2 " red 

Lilies longiflorum 2-4 " white 

Stock Ij " various 

Salvia 2-4 " scarlet 

Zinnia, crimson, rose, 

white, yellow 2 " various 

Nasturtium climbing " 

Nasturtium, dwarf 1 ft. " 

Sweet Ahjssum 6 in. white 

Nicotiana affinis 3 ft. 

Nicotiana sanderoe 3 " red 

Verbena 1 " various 

Gaillardia (annual) 2 " yellow and red 

Hardy Phlox paniculata. 3 " various 

Phlox Drummondi ...... 1 " " 

July I5th. 

Larkspur H " 

Calliopsis 2 " yellow, brown 

Earbj Cosmos 4 " white, pink, red 

Lavatera 2 " pink 

Marigold, African 2-4 " yellow 

Candytuft 1 " various 

Love-in-a-Mist 1 " blue 

Arctotis grandis 2 " white 

Lobelia Erinus 6 in. blue, white 

Torenia fournieri 8 " blue 

Portulaca 6 " various 

Ageratum 1 ft. blue 

Canna (bulb) 4 " red, yellow 

Convolvulus, dwarf 1 " various 

Sunflowers 4-6 " yellow 

Salpiglossis 1 " various 

Calendula 1 " yellow 

Balsam 2 " various 

The sign * means blooms till frost. 
5Q 





HARDI- 


BLOOM 


NESS 


* 


tender 


* 


" 


* 

6 wks. 


h. h. p. 
h.p. 


4 " 




* 


h. h. a. 


* 


" 


* 


h. a. 


* 


" 


* 


<< 


* 


" 


* 


h. h. a. 


* 


" 


* 


h. a. 


* 


" 


8 " 
* 


h.p. 
h. a. 


* 


« 


* 


C( 


10 " 


it 


10 " 


<t 


* 


t< 


8 " 


« 


8 " 


<( 


* 


" 


* 


t. a. 


* 


" 


* 


h. a. 


* 


(< 


8 " 


tender 


8 " 


h. a. 


* 


" 


9 " 


h. h. a. 


* 


h. a. 


6 " 


t. a. 



JULY 



BLOOM CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS MONTH 

Annual Poppy, Coreopsis, Foxglove, Campanula, Lychnis, 
Rambler Rose, Begonia, Sweet William, Dianthus, Gaillardia 
(h. p.), Cornflower, Sweet Sultan, early Phlox, Valerian, 
Yucca, Japanese Iris, Pentstemon, Sweet Pea, Petunia, Achillea 
Pearl, Shasta Daisy, Anthemis, Pansy, Agrostemma, Jacob's 
Ladder, the Spiraeas, Scabiosa Caucasica, Snapdragon, Ger- 
anium, Delphinium. 



67 



Open afresh your round of starry folds, 

Ye ardent marigolds! 

Dry up the moisture from your golden lids. 

For Apollo bids 

That in these days your praises should be sung 

On many harps, which he has lately strung: 

And when again your dewiness he kisses. 

Tell him I have you in my world of blisses. 

Keats. 



XII 
AUGUST 

With the passing of this month the procession of the flowers, 
with its ever varying arrivals of new blossoms, is nearly at an 
end. However, we are not without flowers, for the garden can 
look its gayest up to mid-September if it has been properly 
planted with masses of the most effective ones. The more 
vigorous flowers, chiefly annuals, will hnger on, a few new hardy 
faces will straggle in, and a very few of the old friends will 
reappear if they have been especially well treated. 

The gardener's reward is sweet indeed when late summer 
smiles upon a garden overflowing with brightest bloom, for there 
he finds a spot that makes the world more beautiful. 

Practical Hints for Work 
August 1st. 

Watch for the black beetles and yellowish bugs on Asters, 
and knock them off into a pan of kerosene water, making 
sure that they are finally destroyed. 

Hoe and weed the beds and train the vines that require it. 

Thin out the seedlings of July-sown hardy plants by trans- 
planting in the seed-beds, and wait until about September 15th 
to set them where they are to winter. Sow Pansy seeds now; 
and the seeds of hardy perennials not already started had bet- 
ter be sown before the middle of this month. 

Collect seeds in the pods. 

Cut doAvn the Hollyhock stalks almost to the ground. 

59 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 

August 15th. 

Order Lilium candidum. Daffodils, and other early bulbs 
that should be planted between September 1st and 15th. 

Cut off the fading flowers of the Phloxes, and new flowers 
will come from the sides of the stalks. 

Continue cutting off all withering blossoms, to encourage 
further bloom. 

Remember that September 15th is not far distant, and that 
about that date is the best time for garden-making in new beds, 
and for transplanting in full beds, wherever it is possible to 
handle plants that need to be moved. 



The Flowers of August 
first flowering in august 



AVERAGE 
August 1st. HEIGHT 

Hibiscus Moscheutos. ... 5 ft. 
Rose Wichuraiana (or 

earlier) trailing 

Golden Glow (Rudbeckia) 6 ft. 
Sunflowers (Helianthus 

mult. fl. pi.) 4 " 

Hyacinthus eandicans ... Sh " 
Achillea Eupatorium .... 3-4 " 

Achillea millefolium 3-4 " 

Phlox paniculata 2-3 " 

Veronica 2 " 

Clematis Davidiana 3 " 

Physostegia 5 " 

Lilium speciosum, aura- 

tum, etc 3 " ^ 

Lilium tigrinum and 

superbum 3^ " 

Gypsophila paniculata. . . 2 " 

60 









HARDI- 


COLOR 


BLOOM 


NESS 


white, pink 


6 wks. 


h.p. 


white 


4 


(C 


<< 


yellow 


6 
6 


<c 




white 


4 


<( 


« 


yellow 


8 


" 


<( 


pink 


8 


" 


«( 


various 


6 




" 


blue 


8 


<c 


<c 


sky-blue 


4 


" 


<< 


pink 


6 




« 


lite, pink, etc. 


4 




« 


orange-red 


6 




« 


white 


6 




« 



AUGUST 



FIRST FLOWERING IN AUGUST 



AVERAGE 

August 1st. HEIGHT 

Helenium pumilum, etc. 1^ ft. 
Chrysanthemum, single 

(Painted Daisy) 1 

Helichrysum (Everlasting) 2 

Seabiosa 2 

Asters 2 

Celosia (plume variety). 1^ 

Aconitum Japonieum ... 2 

Didiscus Ij 









HARD! 


COLOR 


BLOOM 


NESS 


yellow 


8 wks. 


h.p. 


various 


6 


<( 


h. a. 


crimson 


* 




«t 


various 


* 




<< 


" 


8 


<c 


(< 


red, yellow 


* 




t. a. 


blue 


6 


" 


h.p. 


" 


8 


" 


h. a. 



BLOOM CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS MONTHS 

Hollyhock, Stock, Gladiolus, Delphinium, Nasturtium, 
Convolvulus, Salvia, Sunflower, Monarda, Zinnia, Sweet 
Alyssum, Portulaca, Platycodon, Nicotiana, Calendula, Calliop- 
sis. Larkspur, Gaillardia (h. p.), Verbena, Salpiglossis, Stokesia, 
Jacob's Ladder, Liatris, Coreopsis, Geranium, Sweet Peas, 
Petunia, Achillea Pearl, Snapdragon, Dahlia, Candytuft, 
Love-in-a-Mist, Marigold, Ageratum, Hunnemannia, Arctotis, 
Canna, Begonia, Lobelia, Bocconia, Pentstemon ovatus. 
Cardinal Flower, annual Gaillardia, early Cosmos, Lavatera, 
Torenia fournieri. Balsam, Phlox Drummondi. 

The sign * means blooms till frost. 



Ql 



PART THREE 
GENERAL INFORMATION 



PART THREE— GENERAL INFORMA- 
TION 

XIII 
THE WILD GARDEN 

Transplanting. — The little wild-growing things of the woods 
and fields may be dug up and brought to our shady corners or 
sunny borders reserved for them if the right soil awaits them; 
otherwise it is useless to expect much success. In mo\nng wild 
plants, consider their natural soil as well as position as regards 
sunlight or shade. If a fern is a native of rocks or stones, imi- 
tate its surroundings and "plant" stones about it if necessary. 
Most of the dealers in plants can supply many of the hardy 
ferns and wild flowers, but when they are transferred directly 
from their natural haunts it is easier for the gardener to study 
and to know their requirements. 

Ferns. — Autumn is the best time for transplanting ferns, 
but all wild plants, even those in bloom, may be moved at any 
time if sufficient earth is " balled " about the roots, and provided 
that they are well watered and mulched when planted. 

Ferns show best in the cool woodland, with occasional sun- 
light gilding their feathery fronds, though many of them thrive 
without much shade, especially if there is moisture. A few 
grow in dry ground and sun. 

Wild Seeds. — Some nurserATuen advertise packages of mixed 
seeds that may be sown broadcast in the wild garden, but 
of these seeds some will have to be transplanted if the location 
in which they appear happens to be unsuitable. 

65 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 

Location. — In seeking a location for a wild garden, choose, if 
possible, a sunny nook bordering on a grove of trees, that the 
place may include the flowers for sunshine as well as those for 
shade; and, above all, locate near brook, bog, or pool, if such 
an opportunity should be yours. 

Preparation for a Wild Garden on Dry Ground 

Most wild plants will succeed if planted in ground prepared 
as follows: 

If the location is dry and sandy, dig out a space eighteen 
inches deep and lay in two inches of clay or spread a two-inch 
layer of broken shells and ashes on the bottom. Spread over that 
twelve inches of good soil, with old leaves, and fill up the remain- 
ing space with leaf-mold from the woods or from the florist's. 
Stones under the surface and a few above ground will complete the 
natural conditions and help to retain moisture. If the soil of 
your place is naturally heavy and rich, add several inches of leaf- 
mold, and let stones abound. Raise the bed two inches above 
the natural ground. Allow dead leaves to accumulate, and 
do not remove them all when the season for cleaning up arrives. 

Flowers for the Wild Garden 

The following list contains a few of the most common wild 
flowers in the Eastern States, under their most familiar names; 
most of them purchasable at the nurseries. 

BEGINNING TO FLOWER SOIL* LOCATION 

March and April. 

Crocus (treat as wild) dry sun or shade 

Snowdrop " " " damp 

Scilla dry or damp " 

* The preferred habitat of these flowers is given, but some of them will 
often thrive, though not so well, under other conditions. 

66 



THE WILD GARDEN 



BEGINNING TO FLOWER SOIL * LOCATION 

March and April. 

Bloodroot dry or damp partial shade 

Spring Beauty damp " " 

Trillium " shade 

Adder's Tongue " " 

Jack-in-the-Pulpit dry or damp " 

Violet " 

Marsh Marigold damp sun 

Saxifrage dry shade 

Pink Showy Orchid damp " 

Daffodil (treat as wild) hea\y sun or shade 

Star of Bethlehem damp sun 

May. 

Hepatica dry shade 

May Apple damp " 

Foam-flower " " 

False Solomon's Seal " " 

Baneberry " *' 

Honeysuckle (Bush) dry or damp " 

Columbine (red) " " sun or shade 

Lupine (wild) dry sun 

Moccasin-flower dry or damp shade 

American Laurel dry " 

Catchfly " sun 

Forget-me-not, M. palustris damp shade 

" M. dissitiflora dry sun 

June. 

Red Wood Lily dry shade 

Anemone (wood) " partial shade 

Lilium Canadense damp sun 

Flowering Raspberry dry partial shade 

Flags dry or damp sun 

Showy Lady SHpper damp shade 

Tawny Day Lily dry sun 

Bergamot " partial shade 

*The preferred habitat of these flowers is given, but some of them will 
often thrive, though not so well, under other conditions. 

67 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 



BEGINNING TO FLOWER 

June — Con tinved . 

Yarrow 

Butterfly -weed 

Rhododendron 



SOIL 



dry 



LOCATION 

sun 
<( 

shade 



July. 

Iron-weed damp sun 

Meadow Rue 

Meadow Sweet 

Jewel-weed 

Queen's Lace dry 

Bouncing Bet 

Meadow Beauty damp 

Cardinal Flower 

Steeple-bush 

Wild Phlox dry or damp sun or shade 

Lobelia— blue damp sun 

Lily, Tiger dry or damp " 

Lily, Turk's-cap 

AuguM and September. 

Marsh Mallow damp sun 

Liatris scariosa dry 

Fireweed 

Joe-pye-weed damp 

Bee Balm dry or damp 

Elecampane damp 

Tansy dry 

Asters (wild) dry or damp sun or shade 

Golden-rod drj' or damp sun 

Gentian damp " 

HeUanthus dry or damp " 

Hardy Ferns 
Hardy Ferns effective for a wild garden or for the shady 
side of a house and obtainable at the nurseries: 

Adiantum pedatum or Maidenhair, 1 foot partial shade 

Aspidium marginale, 2 feet, dry places shade 

*The preferred habitat of these flowers is given, but some of them will 
often thrive, though not so well, under other conditions. 

68 



THE WILD GARDEN 

Asplenium Filix-fsemina or Lady Fern, 2-3 feet sun or shade 

Dicksonia punctilobula or Gossamer Fern, 2 feet " 

Onoclea sensibilis or Sensitive Fern, 1 foot, moist places 

Onoclea Struthiopteris, 3 feet, moist places " 

Osmunda cinnamomea or Cinnamon Fern, 4 feet, moist 

places 

Osmunda Claytoniana, 3 feet, moist places 

Osmunda regalis or Flowering Fern, 3 feet, moist places 
Phegopteris hexagonoptera or Beech Fern, 1 foot, dry 

places " 

Polypodium \njlgare or Polypody, 8 inches, rocks " 

Pteris aquilina or Brake, 2 feet, dry places " 

Scolopendrium or Hart's Tongue, 10 inches partial shade 



XIV 
THE WATER GARDEN 

Waterside Plants 

Fortunate the flower-lover whose place is blessed with a 
brook or pool, for there indeed is a Wild Garden half-way 
made, where wild plants love to spread, while the birds in 
countless numbers bathe and drink on the sloping margin. 
The stream meandering through sun and shadow offers endless 
opportunity for sprinkling its banks with flowers craving moist- 
ure, some to thrive only in shade, while others live for sunshine. 

In Sun. — Some of the sun-plants for the waterside are 
Irises and common blue Flags, Steeple-bush, Poet's Narcissus, 
Cardinal Flowers, Joe-pye-weed, Lilium Canadense and L. 
superbum (Turk's-cap Lily), Marsh Mallows, Gentians, Wild 
Rice, Meadow Beauty, Sweet Brier, Pickerel-weed, and Water 
Avens. 

In Shade. — In shaded places grow the several Violets, Lilies- 
of-the-Valley, Orchids, Trillium, Ferns, Anemones, and Forget- 
me-not (Myosotis palustris). 

Water-Lilies 

There are a number of aquatic plants named in the flower 
catalogues to be grown in ponds, pools, or tubs, but none are more 
lovely than the Nymphseas, or Water-Lilies. Some of the hardy 
ones will grow in slow-running water, if properly anchored by 
a stone, or a part of the stream may be diverted into a pool that 

70 



THE WATER GARDEN 

is dammed. In small artificial basins or tubs grow only the 
varieties known as N. Laydekeri and the pigmies N. tetragona 
— four or five plants in a space four feet in diameter. In a 
small pond, in addition to these, grow a few of the Marliac 
hybrids, as almost all others are too rampant. Avoid in the 
beginning the overcrowding of a pond with new plants. 

How TO Prepare a Small Pool 

For a pool where there is no current, lay a concave 
Portland cement bottom, and upon this make a bed six inches 
deep, of rich loam and rotted manure. The water should rise 
about three feet deep in the centre, decreasing to about fifteen 
inches at the margin. If the water is muddy, cover the soil 
with one and one-half inches of sand. A brick or stone is laid 
above the root of each newly planted Lily until it becomes 
established. An artificial pond with an outlet may have a clay 
bottom well packed and one foot deep. 

Wherever Water-Lilies are sold, free information may be 
had regarding their culture and the habits of the different 
varieties. 



71 



XV 

SHRUBS 

The true lover of outdoor life must always make a plea 
for natural lines in the growing bush or tree and for a plant- 
ing that will give each specimen a chance to unfold itself freely. 
When shrubs are to be massed in groups, aim to place them so 
that contact will be ever so slight when they are full grown. 
If shrubs are wanted for a hedge, how much more effective 
it is when each bush is allowed a full development of branch 
and blossom, except for a certain moderate trimming to 
maintain a uniform height and to control a few wayward side- 
shoots without interfering with the natural proportions. Un- 
doubtedly, in some formal gardens the stiff clipped hedge is 
essential to the style of the garden, but as a rule the free- 
growing shrub-hedge is preferred by him who has a soul for 
the Green Things. 

Planting 

In 'planting shrubs, prepare the soil as for hardy garden-beds 
by digging it out to the depth of two feet, and not less than 
three feet wide, and enrich it as described on page 11. Small 
shrubs should be planted three feet apart; the larger ones, 
however, should be from five to eight feet apart. 

Shrubs are moved either in October or in March, April 
or May. After setting the shrub and working in the soil firmly 
and carefully about the roots, pour in a half-pail of water and 

72 



SHRUBS 

allow it to absorb, after which fill in the rest of the earth, tread 
it down firmly, then water it again. 

Box AND Privet Hedges 

In putting out the young plants of Box and Privet which are 
to be kept as close-clipped hedges, set them in a trench of rich 
soil four inches apart ; in March prune them back severely until 
they become dense and impenetrable bushes; even then they 
will require annual spring trimming. Privet may need trim- 
ming again in August. 

In planting small fruit trees, dig a hole three feet deep and 
at least five feet in diameter, and fill it with rich heavy soil and 
manure. 

In planting shrubs, trees, etc., avoid setting them too deep, 
or they will not prosper. 

Large Shrubs 

The Best for a Hedgerow over Five Feet in height 



BLOSSOMS 

Lilac or Syringa (several 

varieties) May 

Althaea or Rose of Sharon 

(several varieties) Aug. 

Mock Orange or Philadel- 
phus (P. coronarius pre- 
ferred) June 

Deutzia crenata " 

Weigela (tall varieties) ... " 

Rosa Rugosa " 

Spiraea Van Houttei " 



BLOSSOMS 

Spiraea Lindleyana June 

Snowball or Viburnum Sie- 
boldi, V. pninifolium, V. 
dentatum, V. plicatum 
(Japanese) 

Hawthorn or Crataegus 
Crus-galli and C. coc- 
cinea May 

Bush Honeysuckle or Loni- 
cera fragrantissima and 
L. Morrowi, etc " 



73 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 



POPULAR SUMMER-FLOWERING SHRUBS, IN ADDITION TO THE 
VARIETIES ALREADY NAMED 



BLOSSOMS 

Clethra alnifolia or Sweet 

Pepper Bush June 

Calycanthus floridus or All- 
spice Shrub " 

Weigela nana variegata, 
etc " 

Deutzia Fortunei and Pride 
of Rochester " 

Berberis Thunbergi or Bar- 
berry (red foliage) Sept. 

Berberis vulgaris purpurea " 



BLOSSOMS 

Hydrangea paniculata 

grandiflora Sept. 

Spiraea Billardi, S. opuli- 
folia, S. Anthony Waterer, 
S. Reevesi, S. Doug- 
lasi June 

Rubus odoratus or Flower- 
ing Raspberry " 

Chionanthus Virginica or 
White Fringe 

Rhodotypos kerrioides .... " 



May-Blooming Shrubs 



Prunus Japonica or Double- 
flowering Plum. 

Prunus triloba fl. pi. 

Cydonia Japonica or Japanese 
Quince. 

Spiraea arguta, S. Thunbergi. 

Spiraea prunifolia. 



Exochorda grandiflora or Pearl 

Bush. 
Deutzia graciUs. 
Tree Paeony. 
Daphne Cneorum. 
Forsvthia viridissima, F. Fortimei. 



Flowering Dwarf Trees 



BLOSSOMS 

Andromeda arborea June 

Cerasus Sieboldi or Japa- 
nese Cherry May 

Persica Vulgaris or Flower- 
ing Peach 

Pyrus spectabilis or 
Flowering Crab Apple . " 



BLOSSOMS 

Magnolia conspicua May 

Magnolia Soulangeana. ... " 
Cercis Canadensis or Judas 

Tree " 

Cornus florida or Dogwood 

(white, pink) 

Halesia or Snowdrop Tree " 



74 



XVI 
VINES 

As the roots of almost all hardy vines go deep and require 
good heavy soil the space prepared for them should be nearly 
two feet deep, and three feet wide each way. 

One cubic foot of good soil is all that is required for annual 
vines. 

The Most Popular Hardy Vines 

BLOSSOMS 

Aristolochia Sipho or Dutchman's Pipe June 

Lonicera or Honeysuckle (several varieties) June and later 

Ipomaea pandurata or Hardy Moonflower July 

Bignonia radicans or Trumpet Vine August 

Wistaria May 

Clematis paniculata late August 

! Crimson Rambler, etc July 1st 

Rose Setigera " " 

Wichuraiana " 15th 

Wild Grape Vine 

Celastrus scandens or Bitter Sweet 

Ampelopsis Veitchi or Boston Ivy 

Annuals 

Cobsea scandens or Cup and Saucer Vine August 

Gourd " 

Nasturtium all summer 

Balloon Vine or Love-in-a-Puff July 

Canary Bird Vine or Tropaeolum Canariense August 

Wild Cucumber Vine or Echinocystis " 

Japanese Hop or Humulus Japonicus Variegatus 

75 



XVII 
ROSES 

Roses require more labor than any other plant, but every 
garden should have as many as can be successfully cared for. 
In planting Roses, the choice for a small garden is made difficult 
by the long and tempting lists of them in catalogues. If the 
garden and the purse are both large, it is a simple matter to 
choose the varieties that shall adorn the Rose garden ; but when 
it is otherwise, we must look for satisfaction from a limited 
list of some which may be ranked among the favorites. If 
there is space for but a few, the June Roses and Ramblers 
may be preferred as being the hardiest and requiring less 
winter protection. 

Hardy Roses and Hardy Hybrid Perpetuals may have an 
occasional later blossom after the June bloom. They need a 
little winter protection. 

The Tea Rose and Hybrid Tea, and the few climbing Teas, 
bloom at intervals from June until frost. They are the tender 
Roses, and require heavy winter covering, preferably straw tied 
about the plants, with about eight inches of manure as a top- 
dressing and two feet of leaves. 

The Polyantha Rose needs light covering in winter; it blooms 
at intervals during the season. 

A Few of the Best Hardy Hybrid Perpetual Roses 

JUNE roses 

Pink — Mrs. John Laing, Paul Neyron, Baroness Rothschild, 
Magna Charta, La France. 

76 



ROSES 

White — Gloire Lyonnaise, Margaret Dickson, Boule de 
Neige, Coquette des Blanches, Frau Karl Druschki. 

Red — General Jacqueminot, Ulrich Brunner, Victor Hugo, 
Rosieriste Jacobs. 

Yellow — Persian Yellow, Soleil d'Or. 

SOME HARDY ROSES AND HARDY CLIMBING ROSES 

Damask Rose — Leda, York. Lancaster, etc. 

Moss Rose — Gloire de Mosses, Crested Moss, Blanche 
Moreau, Henry Martin. 

Rugosa Rose — Very hardy; for hedges; red, white. 4-5 ft. 

Polyantha Rose — Marie Pare, Perle d'Or, Clothilde Soupert. 

Sweet Brier Rose of England. 

Hardy Climbing Roses — The Dawson Rose, Baltimore Belle, 
Prairie Rose or Setigera. 

Rambler Roses — Hardy Climbing, Crimson, etc.; bloom 
July 1st. 

Memorial Rose or Wichuraiana — Trailing habit; good for 
low walls and rocks, as well as for trellis; blooms July 15th or 
later. 

TEA AND HYBRID TEA, OR THE EVERBLOOMING AND TENDER 
MONTHLY ROSES 

Pink — *La France, *Belle Siebrecht, *Killarney, *Maman 
Cochet. 

White — *Maman Cochet, Bride, Marie Lambert, *Kaiserin 
Augusta Victoria. 

Red — Meteor, *Gruss an Teplitz, Jules Finger, Queen's 
Scarlet. 

Yellow — *Francisca Kruger, Marie Van Houtte, Etoile de 

Lyon, Safrano, Franz Deegen. 

* These roses are the hardiest of the everblooming varieties. 
77 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 



Planting 

It is well to prepare the new Rose-beds in the early autumn, 
allowing time for the settling of the soil before planting; and 
although the hardy Roses may be planted from September 15th 
to November 1st, it is better, in colder localities at least, to 
wait until spring. Tender Roses are always planted in spring. 
The soil for Roses should be very rich, with well-rotted manure 
to the depth of nearly two feet; the earth should be dug out in 
order to enrich it deeply and to remove stones and poor soil. 
Roses must grow in the full sun. 

In planting, spread out the roots so that they are not coiled 
or crossed ; cut off any bruised parts of the roots. With dwarf 
budded stock, set the plant so that the bud — the grafted point 
— is three or four inches below surface. When Roses are 
grown on their own roots, cover the crowns with two or three 
inches of soil. 

Set plants three feet apart, excepting climbers and Rugosas, 
which need to be four feet apart. 

Do not plant in wet weather, or when the ground is frozen; 
do not attempt to plant until the soil of the bed is more or 
less dry and loose and the temperature moderate; do not let 
the roots stay in a heated room, nor lie exposed to the cold 
or to the sun's rays, and bring out from their covering only as 
many plants as can be handled promptly. 

Prune back severely, when planting in spring, to within a 
foot of the ground. 

Prune but little the autumn-planted Roses; prune them the 
next spring. 

Remove suckers from the plants. 

To keep Roses in the best condition, they should be lifted 
78 



ROSES 

every five years in order to renew and enrich the soil beneath 
them. 

Pruning — A Fevt Hints 

Prune in mid-March the hardy Roses, and about April 
15th the tender Roses; leave four or five canes, the top eye of 
each to point outward, to prevent the crossing of branches. 
Pruning Roses to within one foot of the ground assures large 
flowers rather than a profusion of bloom. If they are very 
strong bushes, prune less severely, leaving two feet of the 
plant. Bushes like Sweet Briers are lightly trimed. 

Do not treat Rosa Rugosa and climbers as other Roses. 
Cut off a little of the weaker growths, and remove dead wood. 
They do not require much pruning. Keep all the bushes free 
from suckers by cutting them off as close to the root as possible. 

General Treatment 

March 20th. — Not later, prune hardy Roses as already directed. 

March SOth. — Plant hardy Roses, pruning severely the new 
plants ; remove some of the litter from old hardy Roses. 

April 1st to I5th. — Prune the tender Roses, remove litter grad- 
ually, and fork in the manure of autumn. 

April 25th. — Plant tender varieties. Be ready for the green- 
fly, etc. Spray all Roses with whale-oil soap or kerosene 
emulsion to prevent any appearance of the various pests 
to which they are subject. Be careful that the solution is 
stirred up and not strong enough to burn the plants. Read 
pages on Insecticides and Insects. 

May 10th. — Arsenate of lead or else some hellebore may be nec- 
essary now, and possibly fortnightly until July 10th, especially 
for Roses which will have a later bloom. In most gardens 
spraying is not necessary after this date. 

79 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 

After May 20th. — It is well to treat Roses to liquid manure. 
Spray with the soap or emulsion if required. 

After June 1st. — Look for the Rose-bug and the Rose-worm. 

June 25th and after. — Look for mildew. Don't fail to keep 
the soil in the Rose-bed well hoed and watered if the season 
is dry. 

July 5th and after. — Watch for the blackspot which is due 
in some gardens if the season is wet. It is well after a rain 
to mulch the ground about Roses with old manure, old 
leaves, or grass cuttings, in order to retain the moisture. 
Do not let flowers die on the bushes of Tea Roses, and in 
cutting them oflp of these everblooming varieties, leave one or 
two outward-growing eyes on the stems below the cut, in 
order to secure a later bloom. 

August. — Keep the plants healthy so that the stock will not 
be weakened. 

Beginning about November 15th, after the first heavy frost, 
cover the Rose-bed with a good coat of manure. At the 
last of the month, finish covering with dry leaves, held 
down with stalks or boughs. Cover tender Roses two or 
three feet deep. 



80 



XVIII 
THE SEED-BED 

Various Methods for Seed-Sowing 

Seeds for the flower garden are sown early either in hot- 
bed, cold-frame, or window-box, or later in the open ground 
seed-bed, in a place that is kept for the purpose. 

The plants are later transplanted to the flower-bed. 

Some seeds of annuals are sown in the bed where they are 
to grow, because they die if transplanted, and the superfluous 
seedlings are pulled up and discarded. 

Other seeds are sown and transplanted in the same flower- 
bed when a starting-place — a separate seed-bed under glass or 
otherwise — is lacking. 

With but few exceptions, seedlings are stronger for being 
transplanted, and better able to survive drought. 

HOT-BED 

Sow seeds of annuals in the hot-bed soon after March 10th, 
perennials and biennials then or later. The professional 
gardener starts his seeds in greenhouse or hot-bed by February 
1st. Amateurs will find March early enough. 

COLD-FRAME 

This is another good seed-bed, though the seeds make more 
rapid progress in a hot-bed. Sow seeds the last of March. 

Hardy perennial seeds may also be sown in frames in July 

81 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 

and August without using the glass cover, unless desired in 
heavy rain, when it should be slightly raised above the frame. 
For a small garden sow at the lower end of the hot-bed or cold- 
frame one line, or half a line, of each kind of seed desired. When 
the seedlings are about one inch high transplant them from 
one to two inches apart in the upper half of the frame, the tallest 
growing at the top. A second frame may be required to contain 
all. Give these seed-beds under glass in spring more or less 
ventilation in daytime. Keep them closed at night in cold 
weather. 

WINDOW-BOX 

The box must be shallow, three or four inches deep; holes 
are bored in the bottom, and stones scattered over the holes for 
drainage. Seeds are sown about the middle of March. Trans- 
plant seedlings into other shallow boxes, and turn the boxes 
daily so that the little plants will not become crooked in grow- 
ing to the light. While the seeds are germinating, and awhile 
after, the boxes may be covered with squares of glass. This 
is not absolutely necessary, however. 

SEED-BED IN OPEN GROUND 

Many gardeners have success in this later seed-bed. It 
should have shade a part of the day. Seeds of hardy biennials 
and hardy perennials are sown in April; or the latter may 
be sown as late as August. Seeds sown in summer should be 
shaded while germinating if the location is sunny all day. 
For information about annuals sown in open ground, read 
the chapter on Seeds of Annuals. 

Rules for All Seed-Beds 

The soil for three or four inches in depth must be rich 
and jinely pulverized. Large seeds are placed about one- 

82 



THE SEED-BED 

half inch under; smaller seeds are just covered; very fine seeds 
are sown on the top of the earth, and only pressed down with a 
flat board. Make shallow trenches to receive the larger seeds 
by pressing a long pencil lengthwise into the soil; sow these seeds 
thinly and cover them evenly and press the soil firmly over them. 
The soil should be well settled and slightly moist before the 
seeds are sown. Fine seeds sown in the open are sometimes 
washed away by heavy rains. 

TRANSPLANTING SEEDLINGS 

When watering, use a fine spray. Do not keep the soil too 
damp, and if it seems hard and mouldy after the seedhngs are 
up work the soil between lines with a pointed stick. Use a 
similar stick or a dibble for making the holes to receive the 
seedUngs at the time of transplanting, which is done when the 
plant is about an inch liigh. Do not firm the soil close up to 
the neck of the seedhng. When moving young plants to their 
final position soak the soil well before lifting them, so that more 
earth will be retained about the roots. Protect them if pos- 
sible from the sun for two days after transplanting and water 
them well after 4 p.m. 



XIX 
HOW TO MAKE A HOT-BED AND A COLD-FRAME 

A Hot-Bed 

Buy a frame and sash and fit the frame over a hole two feet 
deep. The frame alone should stand eighteen inches at the 
back and twelve inches in the front to give the proper slope 
to catch the sunlight, and should face south or east if possible. 
The frame when set should be above ground about fifteen inches 
at the back and nine inches in front. Fill the excavation three- 
fourths full of fresh horse-manure mixed with one-third as 
much of dried leaves. Tramp it all down thoroughly. Let 
it rest two days, then turn it over, and let it rest again five days; 
turn it again and trample it down thoroughly in layers and 
evenly till it is eighteen inches deep. Put on the sash and wait 
for the heat to rise. When the thermometer registers from 
eighty to ninety degrees, not more, put in six or seven inches of 
fine, rich, light garden soil, press it dow n, and level it off smoothly. 
The seeds may be sown about the 10th of March. The outer 
sides of the frame should be banked with manure if the frame 
is to be used before March. 

A Cold-Frame 

In making a cold-frame, the excavated space below the frame 
need be but a foot deep. The lower half of it is filled with 
manure about six inches deep, the remaining upper six inches 
with fine rich soil. The frame is set a few inches in the ground. 

The dimensions, etc., are the same as those of hot-beds, 

84 



HOW TO MAKE A HOT-BED AND A COLD-FRAME 

and the rules governing each are similar after the seeds are 
planted. Seeds are sown in the cold-frame about April 1st. 

Frames should be set in a sheltered spot if possible. The 
hardy seedlings should be well protected until the middle of 
April, the annuals for a longer time. 



85 



XX 

SEEDS OF HARDY PLANTS 

PERENNIALS AND BIENNIALS 

Perennials and biennials are usually started under glass in 
February, March, or April, but if there is not room for them 
there with the annuals, they may be sown by mid-April in the 
open ground. 

Or, perennials are started in July or early August in the 
open seed-bed or empty frame, when there is not so much 
garden work to be accomplished ; but they will be much smaller 
plants in the first flowering season, and some will not be 
old enough to bloom then. 

// some seeds do not germinate, soak them for twenty-four 
hours in water. 

Feiv perennials or biennials bloom the first year they are sown. 

Dianthus Pinks (h. b.), sown early, bloom the first year. 

STOCK ON HAND 

Always have on hand in the seed-bed an oncoming stock 
of biennials (which live only two years) , and some of the favorite 
and shorter-lived perennials, ready to replace any that may be 
winter-killed. 

Pansy seeds treated as hardy biennials, but sown the 1st 
of August, and young perennials may be transplanted about 
September 15th to their permanent position; (the less hardy 
perennials and biennials may be set in the cold-frame to winter) ; 
Pansies are wintered in the cold-frame or open ground and pro- 
tected with leaves. 

86 



SEEDS OF HARDY PLANTS 

Campanula, Foxglove, Hollyhocks, Sweet William, and most 
hardy perennials should be sown by April to insure full bloom 
the next summer. 

Some of the young plants generally kept in stock are the 
perennials. Foxglove, Sweet William, Anemone Japonica, 
Monkshood, Pyrethrum, Gaillardia, Anthemis, and all bi- 
ennials, especially Campanula and Dianthus; also Hollyhocks, 
and Pansies, treated as biennials. 

SELF-SOWN SEEDS 

Some of the self-sown hardy seeds are Hollyhocks, Columbine, 
Oriental Poppies, Gaillardia, Foxglove, Forget-me-not, and 
a few others. They may be transplanted. 

Forget-me-nots are raised from seed sown outdoors in August 
or early April. They are half-hardy perennials, and are some- 
times killed by winter. 

PLANTS OBTAINABLE FROM OTHER GARDENS 

In small gardens where only a few of each kind of perennial 
are required, it is better, if possible, to obtain the young plants 
from a nursery or from friends possessing gardens. Every 
year there are many of the perennials in old gardens that must 
be thinned out on account of the increased size of the clumps, 
and gardeners are glad to dispose of them. Some of them are 
Phlox, Pfleonies, Irises, Pyrethrum ulig., Rudbeckia, Hemerocal- 
lis, Lilies-of-the-Valley, Lilium superbum, Physostegia, Achillea 
Pearl, Heliopsis, Helianthus, Coreopsis, Rosa Rugosa, Monarda, 
Bocconia, Honeysuckle, Sweet Rocket, Anemone Japonica, 
hardy Chrysanthemums, Clove Pinks, Dahlias, Cannas, 
Valerian, as well as seedlings of Hollyhocks, Foxglove, Colum- 
bine, Gaillardia, Oriental Poppies, Violets, and others. 

87 



XXI 
SEEDS OF ANNUALS 

SOWN OUT OF DOORS AND NOT NECESSARILY TRANSPLANTED 

Seeds that may be sown in the open ground, April 15th or 
later, are those of hardiest plants, i.e., Love-in-a-Mist, Corn- 
flowers, Sweet Sultan, Calendula, Calliopsis, Petunias, Convol- 
vulus, Sunflowers, and Sweet Alyssum. Sow also annual Pop- 
pies, Candytuft, and Mignonette; these three do not bear 
transplanting; sow the seeds where they are to remain, and thin 
out. Silene and Larkspur had better be sown by September 
1st to bloom the following year. Larkspur may also be sown 
under glass in March. 

SOWN INDOORS, OR OUT OF DOORS LATER, AND TRANSPLANTED 

LATE 

Seeds that are sown under glass or in a window-box about 
March 15th, or that may be sown in open ground after danger 
of frost, and transplanted after May 25th, are the following: 

Marigold, Chrysanthemums (Painted Daisies), Phlox Drum- 
mondi, blue Didiscus, Cosmos, Asters, Arctotis, Snapdragon, 
Salpiglossis, Zinnias, Verbena, Larkspur, Ageratum, Celosia, 
Salvia, Scabiosa, Nicotiana affinis, Hunnemannia, Stock, and 
annual Gaillardia. The fifteen last named are more apt to give 
best results when started in a frame or box, and will bloom 
earlier in consequence, although they may be started out of 
doors, excepting Salpiglossis, as above stated. 

88 



SEEDS OF ANNUALS 

When started out of doors. Salvia seeds are not sown until 
June. Sow Portulaca out of doors June 1st. Lavatera and 
Nasturtium are sown in open beds about May 15tli and are 
not transplanted. 

SELF-SOWN SEEDS 

The self-sown seeds are those which seed themselves from 
year to year; they cannot be depended upon to come up in just 
the right place, but generally may be transplanted. They are 
those of Calendula, annual Silene, Larkspur, Love-in-a-Mist, 
annual Poppies (Poppies do not survive transplanting), Sweet 
Sultan, Nicotiana, Cornflower, Sunflower, Petunias, Portulaca, 
and a few others. It is best to preserve their seeds, and sow 
them every year. 

Endeavor to do the transplanting during a rainy period. 



89 



XXII 
FLOWERS FOR SPECIAL PLACES 



PLANTS FOR SHADED BEDS 



Those that will hloom in 
partial shade: 

Torenia Fournieri, t. a. 
Nicotiana, h. a. 
Salvia, h. h. a. 
Phlox, h. p. 
Columbine, h. p. 
Cardinal Flower, h. p. 
Lupine, h. p. 

Pyrethrum uliginosum, h. p. 
Veronica, h. p. 
Coreopsis, h. p. 
Foxglove, h. p. 



Those that require partial 
shade : 

Anemone Japonica, h. p. 
Monkshood, h. p. 
Tuberous Begonias, t. a. 
Lilium speciosum rub. h. p. 
Godetia, h. a. 
Pansies, h. a. 
Violets, h. p. 
Forget-me-not, h. p. 
Ferns, h. p. 
Myrtle. 
Lilies-of-the-Valley. 



PLANTS TO COVER BARE PLACES IN A SHORT TIME 



Annuals from seed in six 
weeks; they bloom till frost; 
all do well in dry places. 

Sunflower. 

Petunia. 

Nasturtium. 

Marigold. 

Portulaca. 

Convolvulus, dwarf. 

Calliopsis, 

Phlox Drummondi. 

Nincotiana. 



Rapid - spreading hardy 
perennials : 

Sweet Rocket. 

Golden Glow. 

Bocconia. 

Monarda. 

Heliopsis. 

Helianthus. 

Arabis Alpina. 

Rose Wichuraiana (excel- 
lent creeper for covering rocks). 

Scabiosa Caucasica. 



90 



FLOWERS FOR SPECIAL PLACES 

THE CENTRE GARDEN-BED IN BLOOM FROM MAY TILL FROST 

For all-summer bloom sow Silene seeds in September for the 
next year. This plant will bloom by May 15th for a month. 
Then set out white Petunia and Salvia plants, which flower 
by July 1st, and continue until frost. In the centre of the 
bed there may be a bird basin set on stone work, or a fountain or 
a sun-dial may be preferred. 

Another plan is the Tulip and Poppy bed, succeeded by 
later annuals. 

In this bed plant late Tulips in October; the next March sow 
annual Poppies, which will be ready to bloom soon after Tulips 
are gone; the Poppies and Tulips may be taken up by July 1st, 
to be replaced by plants of Salvia, Marigold, Verbenas, or any 
of the other transplantable annuals, which, if moved at this 
season, require daily plenty of water. 

A SEPARATE PLOT FOR CUTTING FLOWERS 

If it is possible, keep some place apart from the formal 
garden for growing plants that may be set in rows, squares, 
or masses for the express purpose of cutting the flowers for 
the house and of giving them away. It will not then be neces- 
sary ever to rob the garden of its glory. 



91 



XXIII 
GARDEN PESTS AND REMEDIES 

A Chapter for Every Emergency 

The insect pests which afflict plants are divided into two 
classes: those that chew the plant- food and those that pierce 
plant-tissue to suck the juice. 

The Insecticides are therefore divided into two classes: 
those that kill when eaten, causing stomach poison, and those 
that kill by contact, i. e., either acting through the breathing 
pores and clogging them, or poisoning the body by absorption. 

Insects of the first class, killed by stomach poisons such as 
the arsenites, are caterpillars, worms, and slugs. Insects of the 
second class, killed by body contact with oils, soap, or tobacco, 
are scales, plant-lice, leaf-hoppers, mites, thrips, red spiders, 
mealy-bugs, etc. 

Garden Plants Most Commonly Affected 

Roses, etc., with scale. — Give in November a treatment of 
kerosene emulsion 1 part to 15 parts of water, or whale- 
oil soap 1 lb. to 2 gals, of water. In May or June spray 
with weaker solutions. (For proportions see page 94.) 

Roses, etc., with plant-lice, hoppers, mites, thrips, or red spiders. 
— Give summer treatment of kerosene emulsion or whale- 
oil soap, to which tobacco may be added. When insects 
infest the under part of a leaf, spray beneath the leaf, and 
repeat the application twice or thrice at intervals of a week. 

Roses with worm in rosebud. — Use arsenate of lead or hel- 
lebore. 

93 



GARDEN PESTS AND REMEDIES 

Roses with rose-bug or rose-beetle. — Give Bordeaux with arse- 
nate of lead, and pick off the bugs, dropping them into a pan 

of kerosene. 
Roses, etc., with slugs. — Use arsenate of lead or hellebore. 
Roses, etc., with mildew or rust. — Give Bordeaux mixture, 

applied early. 
Hollyhocks with rust or red specks on under side of leaf. — Spray 

early with Bordeaux mixture. Dig it around crown of 

plant. Destroy diseased parts. 
Hollyhocks with green bug. — Use kerosene emulsion, also 

tobacco. 
Delphinium with worm at root. — Lift the fading plant, find the 

worm, and reset plant in clean soil in which is mixed a little 

tobacco powder. 
Delphinium and Monkshood with blackened leaf and flower. 

— Spray with Bordeaux mixture. Dig dry Bordeaux about 

the crown of plant. 
Paeonies with blackening of flower-stem, and bud. — Spray with 

Bordeaux mixture. Dig dry Bordeaux in about the crown 

of plant. 
Phlox, Pyrethrum ulig.. Verbena, etc. — When leaves turn 

brown and shrivel spray the under side of the leaves with 

Bordeaux mixture one week and tobacco the next week. 
Chrysanthemums with black aphides. — Use tobacco water. 
Rudbeckia, Heliopsis, etc., with red aphides. — Use tobacco 

water. 
Sweet Peas with red aphides. — Use tobacco water. 

Treatment of Fruit Trees, Shrubs, and Vines Affected 

With scale. — Use in July, with spray, kerosene emulsion 
or else whale-oil soap. In winter use "Kill O'Scale." 

93 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 

With lice, tlirip, etc. — Use tobacco or tobacco and soap. 

With worms, etc. — Use any arsenical poison. 

Plants seemingly affected with disease not understood may 
be sprayed weekly with Bordeaux mixture and arsenate of 
lead combined, or Bordeaux alternate with tobacco. If they 
do not improve dig them up, look for worms, cleanse the roots 
in a weak solution of Bordeaux, and reset in fresh earth with 
Bordeaux dug in about the crown. 

Bordeaux mixture is not strictly an insecticide, but most 
insects avoid it. It is a fungicide. 

Tobacco is one of the most useful garden remedies. Where 
it is not sufficiently efficacious combine it with soap. 

Kerosene emulsion (or else whale-oil soap), Bordeaux mix- 
ture, tobacco, and arsenate of lead are sufficient for most gar- 
dens. Some gardens do not need any treatment. 



Insecticides 

proportions of applications 

Whale-oil soap. — 1 lb. to 9 gals, or 2 oz. to 2 gals, of water 
in summer for Roses. 

1 lb. to 7 gals, of water in summer for shrubs, vines, and 
fruit trees. 

1 lb. to 2 gals, of water in November for shrubs, vines, 
Roses and fruit trees. 

1 lb. to 1 gal. of water in February for shrubs, vines, 

and fruit trees. 

Kerosene emulsion. — Summer application for shrubs, 1 part to 

15 parts of water, i. e., 1 pt. of the emulsion in 2 gals, of 

water. 

94 



GARDEN PESTS AND REMEDIES 

Kerosene emulsion. — Continued. 

Summer application for Roses, etc., 3 fluid oz. to 2 gals. 

of water. 

Winter application for Roses (with scale), 1 part to 15 

parts of water. 

Buy at a chemist's a gallon bottle of prepared kerosene 

emulsion. It will last some time for a small garden. 
Kill O'Scale. — Winter application for trees and shrubs, 1 part 

to 20 parts of water. 
Whale-oil soap and tobacco. — Use decoction of 2 oz. of whale- 
oil soap and 1 lb. of ground tobacco in 2 gals, of boiling 

water, cooled before used on summer plants. 
Bordeaux, dry. — Can be dusted on wet leaves or dug in about 

the crown of the plant. 
Bordeaux mixture (powdered). — 4 oz. of Bordeaux powder in 2 

gals, of water. 
Tobacco decoction. — 1 lb. of ground tobacco steeped in 1 gal. of 

hot water, cooled and sprayed on. 
Tobacco powder is sometimes dusted on plants, and when dug 

in about the roots of trees or plants affected with root-lice 

it is beneficial; it also acts as a fertilizer. 
Bordeaux mixture and arsenate of lead. — 1 lb. of arsenate of 

lead to 25 gals, of diluted Bordeaux mixture, or, for a small 

quantity, mix 4 oz. of Bordeaux powder in 2 gals, of water, 

to which add 3 dr. of arsenate of lead. 
Hellebore is sometimes dusted on, but is preferably sprayed, 

using 2 oz. to 2 qts. of boiling water, afterward adding 2 qts. 

of cold water. 
Arsenate of Lead. — 3 dr. to 2 gals, of water. 
Sulphide of Potassium. — | oz. to 1 gal. of water. 

Apply poisons with bellows, whisk-broom, or watering-pot. 

05 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 



CUT-WORMS AND WIRE-WORMS 

Signs of cut-worms may be detected when the plant withers 
and topples over, cut or partly cut in two just below the sur- 
face. Find the worm about one-half inch under the soil, prob- 
ably near the base of the injured stalk, sometimes within it, 
and kill it. Encircle plants with fine range coal ashes, slightly 
dug under the soil, not touching the plant, or place paper col- 
lars or thin shingles around the base of stem, two inches under 
and one inch above ground. For a bait to destroy the cut- 
worms, use fresh clover dipped in arsenate of lead and syrup, 
and cover over with an inch of soil. 

Wire-worms feed on roots. They may be treated with 
poisoned clover bait, or tobacco powder may be dug in about 
the roots. 

Where mice are giving trouble, sprinkle sulphur. 



96 



XXIV 
SOME NOTES ON POPULAR PLANTS 

Aster — the showiest of the annuals. Fed twice with wood 
ashes and refreshed by occasional showers or watering, 
the varieties of three periods — early, midway, and late 
flowering — will furnish bloom from August 1st till frost, if 
the beetles are not allowed to destroy them. Try, first, 
Pseony Branching, Giant Comet, and Superb Late Branch- 
ing varieties. 

Aster, hardy — Ornament the wild garden as well as the home 
garden in late September when flowers are scarce. 

Anemone Japonica — Is better for slight shade. It generally 
dies if transplanted in autumn. 

Althaea Shrub — Its growth is easily disturbed by spading in 
about the roots; use white and pink varieties. They make 
an excellent boundary line for a garden. If a severe winter 
partly kills an Althaea, cut it back and it will start again. 

Aconitum Napellus (Monkshood) — Requires partial shade. It is 
not long-lived, and is subject to a disease which blackens 
the leaf and flower. 

Arctotis grandis — Upper side of petal pure white, under side 
lilac. Unless each plant is staked, grow them apart from 
smaller plants, or the latter may be smothered by them. 

Bachelor's Button — The true " Bachelor's Button " is the little 
yellow Ranunculus acris of May and June. 

Bluets — A long bloom may be had by continual cutting of the 
flowers. They are sown in September or early spring. 

97 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 

Balsam — Should be planted in the sun in rich soil, and watered 
in time of drought. Grow the CameUia-flowered variety, 
set them fourteen inches apart. Start them under glass. 

Coreopsis lanceolata — Cut back after each successive bloom, 
it will give an abundance of flowers till frost. 

Chrysanthemums, hardy — Do their best in the full sun, and 
against a wall or a house, in soil that is rich and rather stiff. 
Pinch off their tops to make them bushy. Divide large 
clumps in spring. 

Cosmos, late — Stake them when young, tie them monthly, 
and pinch back once or twice. 

Cosmos, early — The flowers are smaller, but they are very 
satisfactory for cutting all summer. 

Campanula, medium — The best of the Canterbury Bells is the 
Calycanthema (Cup and Saucer). It should be wintered in 
a frame if the climate is cold. 

Clove Pinks — In severe winters spread some manure over the 
ground beneath their foliage. (Near New York they are 
rarely protected.) They may be increased by cuttings, and 
also spread themselves by root, a small plant soon becoming 
a large clump. They are the sweet-scented variety and 
bloom only three weeks. 

Dahlias — May be set out May 1st, but if planted June 10th or 
later will supply bloom for the latter part of the season, 
when flowers are scarcer. In damp climate and congenial 
soil the plants require no special care. Where the bloom is 
disappointing, provide a richer soil, and allow but one stalk 
to grow on a tuber, and above all, water them. To grow 
them bushy, pinch back when one foot high. To have tall 
growth stake them early. Continue tying them when grow- 
ing tall, as they break off easily in high winds. 

Dianthus Pinks — From seeds sown in March, they give two 

98 



SOME NOTES ON POPULAR PLANTS 

summers of almost continuous bloom. The single Japanese 
Pinks are especially attractive. 

Delphinium — Is sometimes troubled by a "black disease." 
When healthy it will live many years. Cut way back the 
flower-branch that is fading, and new bloom will come soon. 
In rich soil and if no seed-pods form, it blooms almost 
continuously till frost. In winter surround and cover the 
crowns with coal ashes to prevent attack of slugs. 

Digitalis (Foxglove) — Decorates the garden for many weeks, 
and if the old flowers are cut off, another lower stalk will 
later come into flower. It is better to treat tliis plant as a 
biennial, as it is often killed by a cold winter. 

Forget-me-not — In the sun it will die in time of drought if not 
watered. There is a variety which will bear the sun, 
Myosotis dissitiflora; the others need partial shade. Give 
light winter protection of leaves. 

Gladioli — Grow well in the Rose-bed; for a longer bloom, plant 
several sets of bulbs at intervals of three weeks apart. 

Gaillardia, hardy — ^The variegated red and gold is the finest 
plant of this genus. It blooms continuously in light soil 
and needs protection in winter. 

Garden Heliotrope — The old-fashioned, sweet-scented tall, white 
flower of late May and June. This variety is not often 
found at the nurseries. 

Hollyhocks, h. p. — Treat Hollyhocks as biennials, because the 
younger plants bloom best. They require the deepest, rich 
soil, staking, and heavy winter protection. Cut the stalks 
down to the ground when they have finished blooming. 
When Ufting them dig deep to get intact the long roots. 
Apply Bordeaux treatment early. 

Hollyhocks, annual — This variety will flower about July loth 

if the seeds are sown early in frame or window-box and 

99 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 

transplanted out in May. They seem to be free from 
disease. 

Heliopsis — Is often troublesome with its pest of red insects. 

Hemerocallis florham — Is the early yellow fragrant "Lemon 
Lily " that blooms the 1st of June; another variety is the later 
tawny " Day Lily, " H. fulva of July. 

Hydrangea paniculata — Blooms August 1st, and for many 
weeks after. If it is severely pruned each year the flowers 
will be large and drooping with their weight. If pruned 
more moderately the flower-heads wiU be less large but 
more numerous, and the bush is a splendid sight. 

Irises — The several varieties cover a long period of bloom, and 
they are always among the most effective flowers in the 
May-June garden. They require a light, rich soil, and are 
at their best by the water or in moist land. 

Lupine — Does not transplant well after it becomes a large 
plant. It is injured by lime. 

Lilium auratum — Dies out in two or three years, but is the 
most beautiful of all the Lilies. Some others that are hardy 
and long-lived are L. speciosum, L. candidum, L. longi- 
florum, L. Henryi, L. superbum, or Swamp or Turk's-cap 
Lily. 

Lilies sometimes wither soon after the stalk begins to grow. 
Take up the bulb carefully, without breaking off the stalk, 
cleanse it, and reset it in fresh soil. If there are signs of 
mice or moles surround the bulb with cracked glass or 
sulphur, not touching the bulb, or in case of worms sprinkle 
a little dry tobacco two inches around and beyond the 
bulb, without contact, and a little more on the surface of 
the ground about the stalk. This treatment will probably 
save the bulb for next year's bloom. Lilies require watering 
and mulching. 

100 



SOME NOTES ON POPULAR PLANTS 

Lilies-of-the- Valley — Require slight shade and rich and rather 
heavy soil. 

Mallow, annual — Should grow in the sun, and rarely gives 
large flowers except in moist climate. 

Mignonette — Needs moist soil and not too much sun. , 

Nicotiana — Is easily grown, effective, and fragrant. Don't let 
the red variety grow next to red Salvia. It is an impossible 
combination. 

Nasturtium — The climbing variety gives the finest flowers. 

Orchid, wild — The flowers of this family are the favorites 
of the woods. The several different varieties, each under 
many names, make their immediate acquaintance somewhat 
difficult. Cypripedium, — Lady's Shpper, Moccasin-flower 
(the choicest of all), etc., rarely thrive after being trans- 
planted from the woods. Buy them at a nursery. 

Pseonies — The various varieties belong to three different periods 
of bloom — early bloom, mid-bloom, and late bloom — cover- 
ing the season from May 20th to July 1st. To do their 
best, they need water, also rich, heavy soil, beneath them as 
well as around them. Their crowns are set three inches 
below soil. Disease rarely attacks them. They do not 
blossom much the first year after being moved. By Sep- 
tember 1st every seven years each enlarged clump should 
be taken up, divided, and reset in fresh soil. The more 
manure, the better bloom. 

Phlox — Avoid keeping the pale purple shades. Have plenty of 
the brilliant pinks, reds, and whites of both early and late 
varieties. To obtain new plants of choice varieties take 
cuttings of side shoots. 

Pansies — Sown in early August, transplanted in September, 
covered in winter, will bloom, if picked frequently, from 
April 15th to July 1st. Trimmed back, then fertilized, and 

101 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 

not allowed to dry out or go to seed, they will continue their 
bloom till October 1st. Later blossoms are not as fine as 
early bloom. They should have partial shade and water- 
ing. Set them eight inches apart. For spring and summer 
bloom sow seeds the previous August. For full bloom in 
autumn sow seeds in May. Where climate is severe, winter 
them in a cold-frame, transplanting them to beds after 
April 2.5th. 

Petunia — Grow the handsome fringed variety for gardens where 
quality rather than quantity is desired. Start it under 
glass. This kind requires staking. The common variety 
sown outside will fill up the empty spaces in a short time ; but 
choose the white and pink shades, avoiding the magenta, 
and grow them somewhat apart from lower plants, or else 
the latter are likely to be smothered. 

Poppy, Oriental — Is hard to kill. It may sometimes ap- 
parently die off suddenly, but wait six or eight weeks and a 
new growth of leaves will probably appear. The old flame- 
red shade is surpassed by the rich crimson Poppy, also by the 
new white and pink Poppies which bloom at the same time. 
It is impossible to be sure of reproducing these new colors 
from their seeds. Some gardeners have cut off a few inches 
of the root, with an eye (when reproduction was desired), 
setting this root in sandy soil in a cold-frame in early Sep- 
tember, and a new plant has soon started. Move Poppies 
in September if bloom is expected the next year. 

Poppies, annual — Rarely give the desired bloom except where 
there is some moisture of soil or a damp climate. They al- 
ways thrive near the sea. The Shirley variety is the best. 

Roses — Must not be grown in beds with other deep-rooted 

plants. Gladiolus, Verbena, or Pansies can grow around 

Roses. 

102 



SOME NOTES ON POPULAR PLANTS 

Rudbeckia purpurea— It has a big pinkish flower and should 
be grown in the larger gardens. 

Rudbeckia (Golden Glow)— Must be set between tall stakes or 
it breaks easily in heavy rains. It increases by root more 
rapidly than almost any other plant. 

Stokesia— Grows best in light soil. It should be oftener seen. 

Stock— With its fragrance, fine colors, and long bloom, should 
have a place in the front of every border. If potted October 
1st it will often continue to blossom indoors. 

Salpiglossis— Is an exquisite annual h. h. a. It is sometimes diffi- 
cult to start, and is best sown in a frame or window-box, 
care being taken not to keep it too damp. 

Sweet Peas— Need rich, deep, and rather stiff soil. Dig ten- 
inch trench. Put in three inches of manure on the bottom 
of trench and tread it down firmly, then two inches of good, 
rich soil pressed down, then sow a row of the seeds. Cover 
over with two inches of fine soil sprinkled over heavily with 
sheep's manure, and three inches more of soil sprinkled over 
with more sheep's manure. The seeds will then be five 
inches under ground; if sown as soon as the frost is out of the 
ground they will strike down and make strong roots and 
come up in due season. To give long bloom they must 
be frequently picked, and in a dry cHmate they should be 
mulched and watered. Keep the earth level over them 
that water may not run ofl". A wire trellis is neater than 
brush for their support. 
Snowball— The old-fashioned bush is so liable to disease, which 
soon destroys its beauty, that the Japanese Snowball has 
taken its place The latter is not as large or as free-flow- 
ering. There are other desirable varieties. 
Silene— This old-time annual of late May lacks the popularity 
It deserves. It is generally sown in late August in the bed 

1U3 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 

where it is to grow, and the young plants survive the winter 
with the protection of a few leaves. A thinning out in 
April is necessary. 

Sweet William — Lives about three years. In winter leaves 
and some manure should be tucked in about the stalks, 
holding them erect without covering them over completely. 
They are placed near the front of beds. Cut them 
back a little after first bloom and they will blossom 
again. 

Snapdragon — Though called a hardy perennial, it rarely seems 
to survive a winter. It is best to treat it as an annual, 
started under glass; give sunshine and plenty of fertilizer. 

Scabiosa Caucasica, h. p. — Grows too rapidly to be placed 
very near other plants. 

Scabiosa, annual — Takes up little room, and should be grown 
in masses as close to one another as five inches for 
support. 

Valeriana, red and white — Have delicate flowers in June and 
later. 

Valerian — Is a name given to a tall-growing, white, fragrant, 
old-fashioned plant of May and June; called also Garden 
Heliotrope. 

Verbena, mammoth — Needs full sun and some water. The 
plants grow low, and should be massed together by them- 
selves. 

Veronica — Requires staking to keep it from lying over on sur- 
rounding plants. 

Yucca — Requires sunshine and some space for the new growths 
that come up yearly from the parent stock and adjoin the 
old plant, which blooms only once. Transplant new growths 
in April. 

Zinnias — In the tall double variety the rose, yellow, and white 

104 



SOME NOTES ON POPULAR PLANTS 

are preferable; the single, also dwarf double salmon-rose 
varieties are popular. The new dwarf Zinnia Red-Rid- 
ing-Hood, one foot high, is most desirable on account of its 
color and compact growth, and is an effective plant to grow 
as an edging at the front of a bed. 



105 



XXV 
DON'TS 

Don't transplant annual Poppies and Candytuft. Sow 
where required to grow, and thin out. 

Don't relax watch for scale, beetles, worms, etc., on plants 
and trees. 

Don't let manure come in contact with bulbs or roots. 

Don't crowd Roses into beds with other deep-rooted plants. 

Don't dig around roots of the Althaea bushes, or they will be 
injured. 

Don't cover over completely in winter the whole plants of 
Sweet William, Foxglove, Clove Pinks, or other plants retain- 
ing their foliage. 

Don't risk planting perennials after October 15th. They 
are apt to die as a result. Experienced gardeners may often 
do it successfully, but amateurs had better not try it. 

Don't plant anything but Hollyhocks and Sunflowers in 
straight rows; low border edgings also excepted. 

Don't forget to watch for ripe seeds if you desire to preserve 
them. 

Don't try to enrich poor, sandy soil. 

Don't wait to see Rose pests before spraying. 

Don't fail to stake and tie plants that require it. 

Don't fail to weed and loosen the ground about plants. 

Don't fail to water plants in the dry season. 

Don't forget to give Asters a dose of wood ashes after setting 
them out, and again August 15th. Hardy Chrysanthemums 

also bloom better if given wood ashes. 

106 



DON'TS 

Don't forget to look for black beetles and yellowish bugs on 
Asters after July 25th, and to remove them by picking and kiUing. 

Don't hesitate to pick freely of the flowers to encourage 
further blossoming. At least remove the fading blossoms. 

Don't let plants, in unpacking, lie exposed to cold or sun. 

Don't allow them to dry out. 

Don't break off the fine, fibrous roots. 

Don't plant roots in a doubled-up position. 

Don't fail to save wood ashes for the garden. 

Don't forget to take up Dahlias, Cannas, and Gladioli after 
frost, and Geraniums and tuberous Begonias before frost, and 
to put them away dry, and safe from frost. Keep the Begonias 
in dry sand. 

Don't transplant sod in dry weather. 

Don't let the scarlet Oriental Poppy come next to magenta 
or pink flowers. 

Don't move bulbs or plants of early summer, such as Daffo- 
dils, Pseonies, and Irises, until ten weeks after bloom ceases. 
It is during this period that they ripen and store vigor for 
another summer, and if disturbed they would be injured by 
summer heat. 

Don't plant the Morning Glory vine near flower-beds; once 
started it gives more trouble than weeds. 

Don't hasten to set out tender bedding-out plants, such as 
Geraniums, Fuchsias, Heliotrope, Begonias, before June 1st. 

Don't hesitate to mulch those plants that are in the full sun 
and can't be watered in drought. 

Don't prune shrubs except soon after they have finished bloom- 
ing; however, when they are moved they require pruning back. 

Don't destroy toads or birds, the gardener's best friends. 

Don't plant trees, shrubs, etc., too deep, or they will not 
prosper. 

107 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 

Don't keep cats or chickens. They give endless trouble 
in a garden. 

Don't discard the Easter bulbs, Jonquils, Daffodils, Tulips, 
Lilies, or Rambler Roses, but plant them later in the ground; and 

Don't expect much of them for at least two years, and not 
even then unless the soil is good. 

Don't plant Rosa Rugosa and Trumpet vine too near flower- 
beds. The roots spread almost hke those of the Locust. 

Don't plant shrubs nearer than three feet apart ; large shrubs 
five feet or more apart. 

Don't forget that transplanted trees, Uke shrubs, must be 
trimmed back considerably. 

Don't hesitate to tliin out well all closely grown seedlings. 

Don't weed gravel paths when you can spread coarse salt 
over them, which prevents growth of weeds. Use dry salt, or 
else brine, 1 lb. to 1 gal. of hot water. 

Don't pick flowers without scissors. 

Don't pick Poppies without a jar of water at hand to plunge 
them into immediately. They will hve longer for this treat- 
ment. 

Don't divide clumps of hardy plants by cutting through 
them, when the crowns may be pulled apart. 

Don't fail to remove all leaves from the stems in water in 
a flower-bowl, to keep the water from becoming foul too soon. 

Don't overlook this rule: Hoe the soil about the plants, 
keeping the upper two inches of surface loosened to save the 
under moisture from evaporation; this is called " soil-mulching," 
and saves the trouble of frequent watering of established plants; 
but when watering the garden, a thorough soaking once in a 
while is much better than a light sprinkling every other day. 

Don't round and raise the bed above the roots of the shrub, 
nor make the flower-bed so high that the water will run off. 

108 



XXVI 
BIRD-HOUSES IN THE GARDEN 

Purple Martins, Bluebirds, and Wrens, and occasionally 
Titmice, will nest in houses made of wood and painted, but 
such houses must be somewhat weather-worn before the birds 
will make their abode there. 

Woodpeckers, Nuthatches, Creepers, and Flickers will 
often occupy the houses prepared for them, provided they are 
made of hollow trunks or Umbs of trees. A better way to attract 
these birds is to train vines over an old hollow tree instead of 
cutting it down; birds will nest also in the cavities of poles. 

To attract Swallows, Phoebes, and Flycatchers, nail little 
shelves under projecting eaves, or on the rafters of sheds or 
open barns. 

Purple Martins like the apartment-house, and a home con- 
taining several rooms can be built for them and placed at least 
twenty-five feet above the ground, preferably on the top of a 
barn or telegraph pole. The rooms should each measure about 
9x8x8 inches, the doorway 2| inches wide and 3h inches 
high. 

Bluebirds' boxes are usually about 9x7x7, with an 
entrance hole the size of a fifty-cent piece. 

Wrens will nest in almost any box or cavity, and will 
barricade a large entrance with a matting of twigs if a door the 
size of a quarter has not been provided for them. 

The doorway for Titmice can be a trifle larger than a quar- 
ter, or about Ij inches in diameter. 

109 



THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN 

Flickers and Red-headed Woodpeckers need to have the 
entrance hole about 4 inches in diameter, from 12 to 18 inches 
above the floor of the nest, and the space within about 7 inches 
in diameter. 

The other Woodpeckers will Uve in homes of slightly smaller 
dimensions, with entrances from 2 to 3 inches in diameter. 

Fasten a bird-house securely and at least twelve feet above 
the ground, against a house, limb, or post. Birds will not inhabit 
a shaky or leaky house. Set the house facing north or east. 
Do not let branches strike against it, but have shrubs or trees 
near by. There must be but one aperture to a nesting-box — 
much light is not acceptable. Bevel the edges of the entrance 
hole. Prevent the ascent of cats by fastening around the post 
or tree, just below the bird-house, an inverted, funnel-shaped 
piece of tin ten inches deep and considerably flaring at the 
lower end. 

A basin or pool of water is a great attraction to birds. If 
there is no natural water-supply, set a shallow earthen tray (a 
flower-pot tray) on top of a five-foot post and in the shade. 
Change the water daily. 



110 



REMARKS RELATING TO THE GARDEN CHART 

The plan shows a garden in Ijloom from May 20th till late September (latitude of 
New York City). The plants may be somewhat crowded, but staketl and trimmed 
when necessary; they will not suffer from close planting if the soil is rich. A stdl 
brighter effect is possible in a larger garden. The massing of colors is impossible in a 
small s)5aoe, but the bloom may be continuous, providing that some annuals, e. g.. 
Zinnias, Salvia, Calendulas, Marigolds, Early Cosmos, and Petunias are started in March 
under glass, so that they may bloom early enough to succeed immediately the season 
of Delphinium, Foxglove, etc. The garden's jilanting scarcely becomes effective the 
first year. Few nurseries supply large plants. It takes a year or more for most young 
plants to become well developed. If the purse is limited, begin the first year: 

1. By buying only vines. Irises, Lilies, the Phloxes, and Gladioli. 

2. Fill up the spaces with such annuals as Zinnias, Marigolds, Calendulas, Salvia, 
Early Cosmos, Petunias, Bluets, .Shirley Poppies, Nicotiana, Portulaca, and Sweet 
Alyssum. These would be enough the first year if perennials also are to be raised from 
seeds. 

3. Sow out of doors for another year the hardy jierennials and biennials that are 
most easily raisetl from seeds. See list (jn following page. Ne.xt year buy the remain- 
ing perennials required. 

The four small beds in the chart might contain a few more of the lower plants 
which are omitted for lack of space on paper. Add Tulii)s to centre l)ed. 

A few names are abbreviated for lack of space. 

Honeysuckle vines may be included on four sides of the garden if there is a fence. 

The Phlo.xes not named, as P. suffruiticosa and P. Carolina, belong to the tall later 
variety known as P. jianiculata. The early white Miss Lingard is the favorite of the 
P. suffruiticosa type. Use it freely. 

Gladioli planted in early May, filling any vacant siiaces in the borders, will heli> 
to give the bright colors in early July, when they are often needed in case the annuals 
are late in blooming. 

Plant 8 INCHES apart — Sweet William, Lychnis, Achilleas, Ranunculus, Prim- 
roses, Gaillardia, Aconitum, Tulips, Pinks, .\sters, Larkspurs Pansies, Helichrysum, 
Stocks, Vinca, Lobelia, English Daisies, Gladioli. 

Plant 18 INCHES ap.a.rt — Hollyhocks, Delphinium, Dictamnus, Oriental Poppies, 
Fo.xgloves. 

Plant 12 INCHES apart — .\11 the others. 

Sometimes it saves room to set three or lour plantsof a kind in a triangle or diamond 
shape instead of in straight lines. 

If lower leaves of Hollyhocks overshadow other plants, remove some of them. The 
curved lines over the entrances indicate vine-covered arches. 

A SMALL, CHEAPER GARDEN 

A small garden could be made attractive with plenty of plants in the following 
few varieties: Ranunculus, Columbine, Lupine, Irises, the Phloxes, Foxglove, Del- 
phinium, Lychnis Viscaria, Sweet William, Gladioli, Campanula, Gaillardia, Coreopsis, 
Achillea Pearl, Platycodon, a few Lilies, and the annuals, Silene, Zinnias, Salvia, Mari- 
golds, Lavatera, Cal. Poppies, Asters, Portulaca, and Sweet Alyssum. Most of them 
may be raised from seeds. 



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THE NUMBER AND COST OF PLANTS IN 
THE CHART 

TOTAL COST FOR PURCHASE OF PERENNIALS (PLANTS) 
AND ANNUALS (SEEDS) $47 

^ru;l^ *^® ''°®* °^ ^^n'^^ Pi?"** ^"^ too ™uch for one year, buy half the number of bulbs 
which increase rapidly. From seeds then, raise some of the perennials and of the 
rest— buy half of them the first year and half the next year. From seed "too thi 
annuals may be had at a small cost. seeus, too, tne 



Plants (h. p.) by Purchase, First 
Year. Cost, $20. 

Quantity 

4 Honeysuckle vines. 

6 Rose vines. 

3 Clematis paniculata. 
24 White Phlox paniculata. 
12 Pink Phlox paniculata. 

6 Red Phlox paniculata. 
12 Phlox suffruiticosa. 
16 Phlox Carolina. 
12 German Iris. 

6 Japan Iris. 
12 Lilium speciosum. 
12 Lilium longiflorum. 
12 Lilium candidum. 

6 Lilium Henryi. 

6 Lilium superbum. 
24 Gladioli. 



■ Purchase, Second 
CcsT, .114. 



Plants (h. p.) by Seeds. Sown in April 
Bloom the Next Year. Cost by 
Seeds, $1.25, or, Cost for Plants, 

Sll. 



Plants (h. p.) b 
Year. 

Quantity 
36 Ranunculus acris fl. pi. and Persian. 
12 Evening Primroses, (Enothera spe- 

ciosa. 
18 Achillea tomentosa. 
24 Platycodon. 
12 Lychnis viscaria. 
48 Late Tulips. 
6 Coreopsis lanceolata. 

2 Valerian officinalis. 

1 Yucca filamentosa. 

3 Pyrethrum uliginosum. 
6 Pyrethrum hybridum. 

4 Liatris pycnostachya. 
3 Veronica longifolia subsessilis. 

3 Pentstemon digitalis. 

2 Dictamnus fraxinella. 

Annuals from Seed. Cost, S2. 

Quantity 

12 Zinnias of each shade, pink, white, 
yellow, dwarf red. 
*20 Salvias, red. 

22 .\frican Marigolds. 

12 Calendulas. 
8 Early Cosmos. 

12 Japanese Pinks, Dianthus Heddewigi, 
h. b. 

12 Chinese Pinks, Dianthus Chinensis. 
h. b. 

4 Feverfew, double white. 
8 Petunias, white. 

36 Asters. 
*18 Celosia, feathered, red. 

18 Larkspur. 
*12 Stock, ten-week Stock. 
*24 Ageratum. 
*24 Helichrysum, dark red. 

18 Vinca. 
*12 Lobelia compacta. 

24 English Daisies, buy plants. 

28 Pansies, sow in August. 
8 Nicotiana affinis, white. 
Sow in borders and thin out. Bluets, 
Poppies, Lavatera, Portulaca, Silene, 
Sweet Alyssum, California Poppies. 

as e.tlvTs Tnlf iT'"'' M '{''l'" ""^' ""''7 F'^'' '"' ?^^''<=^ ^^^ ^ny others wanted for bloom 
as earlj as July 1st. Helichrysum and Asters will not bloom till August. 



'luai 
20 
24 
24 
14 

14 
10 



itity 
Hollyhocks. 
Sweet William. 
Campanula, medium, h. b. 
Foxgloves. 

J Lupins, blue, white. 
I Lupiuus polyphyllus. 
Delphinium elatum, etc. 
Delphinium Chinense. 
Columbines. 
Anthemis. 
Oriental Poppies. 
Lychnis Chalcedonica. 
Achillea Pearl. 
Aconitum Napellus. 
Gaillardia grandiflora. 



INDEX 

LATIN AND ENGLISH NAMES OF GARDEN FLOWERS 

(The figures in italics refer to pages giving the plant's 
first flowering month.) 

PAGES 

Achillea, The Pearl— White Yarrow 7, 50, 86 

Achillea — Yarrow 60 

Aconitum — Monkshood 25, 61, 80, 90, 97 

Ageratum — ^Floss Flower 7, jd, 88 

Agrostemma — Rose Campion, Mullein Pink 50 

Anemone Japonica — Windflower (Alttumn), 5, 7, 9, 16, ly, 23, 86, 97 

Anemone — Windflower (Spring) 4.J 

Anthemis — hardy Marguerite 7, 50, 86 

Anthericum — St. Bruno's Lily 4J 

Antirrhinum — Snapdragon 16, 50, 88 

Aquilegia — Columbine 4, 19, 44, 86, 90 

Arctotis grandis jd, 88, 97 

Aster, h. a /;, 19, 59, 61, 88, 90 

Aster, h. p. — Starwort, Michaelmas Daisy ... 8, 77, 97 

Balsam — Lady's Slipper 5<5, 97 

Bachelor's Button — Ranunculus acris fl. pi. . . . 4, 44, 97 

Bellis perennis — English Daisy 4J 

Begonia— Elephant's Ear 9, 24, 48, 5<5, 90 

Bergamot — Bee Balm, Oswego Tea, Monarda . . . 5, 8, 55 

Bleeding Heart — Dicentra spectabilis 5, 8, .^5 

Bluebell — Mertensia 43 

111 



INDEX 

PAGES 

Bluets — Centaurea 38, 50, 88, 97 

Bocconia — ^Plume Poppy 8, 55, 86, 90 

Calendula — Pot Marigold jd, 88 

Calliopsis 56, 88 

Campanula— Bellflower, Hairbell . . 7, 16, 19, 38, 50, 86 

Campanula Medium — Canterbury Bells . . 7, 16, 19, 38, 50, 97 

Candytuft, h. a.— Iberis 7, 38, 56, 88 

Canna— Indian Shot 8, 24, 42, jd, 86 

Canterbury Bells — Campanula Medium . . 7, 16, 19, 38, 50, 97 

Cardinal Flower — Lobelia jd, 90 

Catchfly— Silene 17, 34, 4.4, 88, 90, 102 

Celosia — Coxcomb and Plume Flower, 2 Varieties . 19, 61, 88 
Centaurea — Sweet Sultan, Cornflowers, Ragged Sailor, Kaiser 

Blume, Bluets— Dusty Miller .... 38, 50, 88, 97 

Chionodoxa — Glory of the Snow 20, 5^ 

Chrysanthemum— Pompone, etc., h. p. . 5, 8, 9, 16, 23, 28, 48, 86, 97 
Chrysanthemum, single — Painted Daisy, h. a. ... 61, 88 

Clematis Davidiana (Bush) 5, 8, do 

Clematis paniculata (Vine) 4, 77, 18, 19, 75 

Cockscomb — Celosia 19, 61, 87 

Columbine — Aquilegia 4, 19, 44, 86, 90 

Convolvulus — Morning Glory (Dwarf) .... ^6, 87, 90 
Coneflower — Rudbeckia . . . . 5, 7, 48, 60, 86, 90, 102 

Cornflower — Centaurea 38, 50, 88, 97 

Coreopsis lanceolata — Tickseed . . .9, 50, 86, 89, 90, 97 
Cosmos, late and early ... 8, 17, 23, 25, 48, 56, 88, 97 
Crocus 20, 54 

Daffodil— Narcissus 5, 20, 59, 49, 60, 100 

Dahlia 5, 8, 9, 24, 42, 48, 56, 86, 97 

112 



INDEX 

PAGES 

Delphinium — hardy Larkspur 7, 77, 39, §0, 98 

Dianthus — Pinks, h. b 50, 86, 97 

Dianthus Barbatus — Sweet William . . . 7, 16, 19, 28, 50, 86 

Didiscus 61, 88 

Digitalis— Foxglove . . 7, 16, 19, 28, 34, 38, 49, 86, 90, 98 
Doronicum — Leopard's Bane '43 

Everlasting Flower — Helichrysum 1, 61 

Flag — Iris, purple 44 

Fleur-de-Lis — Iris 4, 7, 34, 44, 86, 99 

Forget-me-Not— Myosotis 17, 4g, 86, 90, 98 

Foxglove— Digitalis . . 7, 16, 19, 28, 34, 38, 4g, 86, 90, 98 
Fuchsia 48 

Gaillardia— Blanket Flower, h. p. and h. a., 7, 16, 50, 5<5, 86, 88, 98 
Garden Heliotrope, see Valerian . . . 4, 7, 34, 44, 86, 98 

Gay Feather — Liatris §5 

Geranium 23, 48, 50 

Gilliflower— Stock 7, 18, 36, 88, 102 

Gladiolus— Sword Lily .... 9, 24, 42, 55, 98, 102 

Glory of the Snow, see Chionodoxa ^0, ^4 

Golden Glow— Rudbeckia . . . . 5, 7, 48, 60, 86, 90, 102 
Gypsophila — Baby's Breath 60 

Helenium — Sneeze-weed 61 

Helianthus— Sunflowers 5, 8, 17, 60, 86, 90 

Heliotrope 48 

Helichrysum — Everlasting Flower 7, (5/ 

Heliopsis— Orange Flower 5, 8, 86, 90, 99 

Hemerocallis— Yellow Day Lily, Lemon Lily, etc., 4, 7, 44, 55, 86, 99 

113 



INDEX 

PAGES 

Hibiscus — Swamp Rose Mallow 8, 19, do 

Hollyhock— Althaea . . . . 4, 7, 16, 38, 39, jj, 86, 98 
Hunnemannia — Giant Yellow Tulip Poppy . . . . cd, 88 

Hyacinth 5, 24, 59, 4J, 48 

Hyacinthus candicans — Cape Hyacinth 7, 60 

Iris, German— Fleur-de-Lis . . . . 4, 7, 34, 44, 86, 99 
Iris, Japanese — Fleur-de-Lis 7, 34, 50, 86 

Jacob's Ladder — Polemonium cq 

Jonquil — Narcissus 20 ?o 

Larkspur, h. a 17, jd, 88 

Larkspur, h. p. — Delphinium .... 7, ly, 39, jo, 98 

Lavatera — annual Mallow c<5 88 

Liatris — Gay Feather cc 

Lilium candidum 19, 20, co 99 

Lilium Canadense 20 

Lilium auratum, speciosum, Henryi . 18, 20, 25, 60, 90, 99 

Lilium superbum — Swamp or Turk's-cap Lily . 20, 60, 86, 99 

Lilium tigrinum — Tiger I^ily 20, do 

Lilium longiflorum c<5 99 

Lily, Yellow Day— Hemerocallis flava, fulva, florham, 

4, 7, 44, 55, 86, 99 
Lily-of -the- Valley— Convallaria . . . . 21, 25, 43, 86, 100 

Lindelofia ^, 

Lobelia, h. a 7 k6 

Ivobelia, h. p. — Cardinal Flower 5<5, 90 

Love-in-a-Mist — Nigella 5<5, 88 

Lupine . 4, 7, ^^, 90, 99 

Lychnis — Campion 7, 47, §0 

114 



INDEX 

PAGES 

Marguerite, h. p. — Anthemis 7, 50, 86 

Mallow, Swamp, h. p. — Hibiscus 8, 19, do 

Mallow, annual — Lavatera . . . . . . j6, 88, 101 

Marigold— Tagetes . . . . . . 23, 5<5, 88, 89, 90 

Mignonette — Reseda 88, 100 

Michaelmas Daisy — hardy Aster 8, 77 

Monarda — Bergamot, Oswego Tea, Bee Balm . 5, 8, 55, 86, 90 

Monkshood — Aconitum 25, 61, 86, 90, 100 

Mullein Pink — Agrostemma 50 

Myosotis — Forget-me-not 17, 4g, 86, 90, 98 

Myrtle — Periwinkle, Vinca minor 44, QO 

Narcissus— Daffodil 5, 20, jp, 49, 60, 100 

Nasturtium 56, 88, 90, 100 

Nicotiana— Tobacco Plant .... 18, 56, 88, 90, 100 
Nigella — Love-in-a-Mist 5(5, 88 

Paeony 3, 5, 8, 16, 34, 44, 4g, 86, 100 

Painted Daisy — Chrysanthemum 61, 8S 

Pansy— Heart's-ease . 4, 16, 17, 38, 39, 59, 86, 90, 100, 102 

Pentstemon — Beard-tongue 7, 4J, §0, 55 

Periwinkle — Myrtle ^^,90 

Petunia 18, 50, 87, 88, 89, 90, 101 

Phlox subulata — pink Moss 4^ 

Phlox Carolina 34, 44, 50, 86 

Phlox paniculata, late 7, 17, 18, 39, 56, 90, 100 

Phlox Drummondi, h. a 7, 5<5, 88, 90 

Physostegia — False Dragon Head .... 7, 19, 60, 86 

Pink, Chinese — Dianthus 50, 86, 97 

Pink, Clove— hardy garden Pinks, Dianthus . 4, 16, 28, 44, 86, 97 

Platycodon — Chinese Bell-flower "^ 55 

115 



INDEX 

PAGES 

Plume Poppy — Bocconia 8, 55, 86, 90 

Polemonium — Jacob's Ladder 50 

Poppy, Oriental 7, 16, 24, 4g, 86, 101 

Poppy, annual 17, 34, 50, 87, 88, 90, 101 

Poppy, Yellow Tulip — Hunnemannia 56, 88 

Portulaca— Sun Plant 7, 19, 47, 56, 88, 90 

Pyrethrum hybridum — Feverfew . . . . 4, 7, 19, ^^, 86 
Pyrethrum uliginosum — Giant Daisy ... 7, 17, 86, 90 

Ragged Sailor — Centaurea 38, §0, 88 

Ranunculus — Bachelor's Button 4, ^-/, 102 

Red-hot Poker — Tritoma 9, 16, 25 

Rose Campion — Agrostemma 50 

Roses ... 5, 8, 17, 33, 34, 38, 39, 4g, 76-80, 89, 101 
Roses, climbing — Ramblers, Wichuriaiana, etc., 4, 7, 50, 60, 77, 90 
Rudbeckia— Coneflower, Golden Glow . 5, 7, 48, 60, 86, 90, 102 
Rudbeckia purpurea — Coneflower 102 

Salpiglossis — Painted Tongue jd, 88, 102 

Salvia — Flowering Sage, red .... 47, 48, §6, 88, 90 

Salvia — Flowering Sage, blue ^> 44 

Saxifraga — Rockfoil 4^ 

Scabiosa — Mourning Bride, Sweet Scabious . . 19, 61, 88, 104 

Scabiosa Caucasica 8, ^o, 90, 104 

Scilla — Squill 20, 3-/ 

Shasta Daisy — Moonpenny Daisy, Chrysanthemum . . 7, 50 

Silene— Catchfly 17, 34, 44, 87, 88, 90, 102 

Snapdragon — Antirrhinum 16, ^0, 88, 103 

Snowdrop — Galanthus 20, ^4 

Speedwell — ^Veronica 7, <5o, 90 

Spiraea §0 

116 



INDEX 

PAGES 

Stock— GilHflower 7, 18. 5^, 88, 102 

Stokesia — Cornflower Aster jj:, 102 

Sunflower, h. p. — Helicanthus . . . 5, 8, 17, do, 86, 90 

Sunflower, h. a. — Helianthus 7, 77, 38, §6, 88 

Sweet Peas 5, 8, 34, 48, ^o, 102 

Sweet William — Dianthus Barbatus . .7, 16, 19, 28, 50, 104 

Sweet Alyssum — Madwort 7, 56, 88 

Sweet Sultan — Centaurea 38, 50, 87, 88 

Sweet Rocket— Hesperis 5, 8, ^3, 86, 90 

Tobacco Plant — Nicotiana .... 18, 56, 88, 90, 100 

Torenia Fournieri 7, ^6, 90 

Tritoma— Red-hot Poker, Torch Lily .... 9, 16, 25- 
Tulip 5, 24, jg, 4j, 48, 90 

Valeriana — Spurred Flower ^o 

Valerian — Garden Heliotrope . . 4, 7, 34, 4.4., 86, 98 

Verbena 5<5, 88, 104 

Veronica — Speedwell 7, 60, 90, 104 

Vinca rosea 7 

Vinca, trailing — Myrtle ^^, 90 

Water Lilies — Nymphaea 70 

Windflowers — Anemone Japonica, etc., 5, 7, 9, 16, ly, 23, 86, 90 

Yarrow — Achillea 60 

Yucca— Adam's Needle 7, 9, 16, 28, 50, 104 

Zinnia— Youth and Old Age 19, jd, 87, 104 

The names of the Shrubs, Vines, Wild Flowers, and Ferns will be 
found under these headings in Part Three. 

117 



A List of Outdoor Books 

PUBLISHED BY CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 



How to Know the Wild Flowers. By Frances 
Theodora Parsons (Mrs. Wm. Starr Dana). With 
40 colored plates and new black-and-white drawings. 
Enlarged, rewritten and reset. Cr. 8vo, ^2.00 mt. 

", I am delighted with it. . . . It is so exactly the kind of 
work needed for outdoor folks who live in the country but know little 
of systematic botany, that it is a wonder no one has written it before." 

— President Roosevelt. 

" It is exactly what has long been wanted, by one who loves nature 
and longs to be formally introduced — so to speak — that is, to know her 
treasures by name, but who has not time to study botany. Your 
arrangement by colors is a gieat help to ready reference, and the illus- 
trations are invaluable." — -Olive Thornk Miller. 

" It is not often that a book so suggestive of pleasure, pure and 
simple, comes our way. So far as we recall books on flowers, it is the 
first that makes country walks an intelligent joy for those who know 
nothing of botany and who have eyes to see and minds to question." 

— New York Times. 

How to Know the Ferns. By Frances Theodora 
Parsons (Mrs, Wm. Starr Dana). With 150 full- 
page illustrations. Cr. 8vo, ^1.50 net. 

" This is a notably thorough little volume. The text is not 
voluminous, and even with its many full-page illustrations the book 
is small ; but brevity, as we are glad to see so many writers on nature 
learning, is the first of virtues in this field. . . . The author of 
' How to Know the Ferns ' has mastered her subject, and she treats 
of it with authority." — New York Tribune. 

" The inspiration that entered into and made ' How to Know the 
Wild Flowers ' so deservedly popular has not been last in ' How to 
Know the Ferns.' " — New York Ti?nes. 

" After a delightful introductory chapter on 'Ferns as a Hobby,' 
the author goes on to the explanation of terms, to the fertilization, 
development, and fructification of ferns, the notable fern families, and 
the description of individual ferns. The illustrations, by camera and 
pencil, are numerous and exceedingly fine, completing a book that 
must prove a lasting delight to all nature-lovers." 

— Boston E-vening Transcript. 



A List of Outdoor Books 



According to Season. By Frances Theodora 
Parsons (Mrs. Wm. Starr Dana). Talks about the 
Flowers in the order of their appearance in the woods 
and fields. With 32 full-page illustrations in colors from 
drawings by Elsie Louise Shaw, i 2mo, $1.75 net. 

" Tlie writer is on intimate terms with Nature and familiar with her 
varied manifestations." — The Dial. 

"The charm of this book is pervading and enduring as is the charm 
of nature." — New York Times. 

" Avoiding technicalities, aiming above all to inculcate a love for 
nature, the author writes accurately and gracefully of her favorite pur- 
suit, and is sure to win many disciples." — Boston Beacon. 

Trees, Shrubs and Vines ofthe Northeastern United 
States. By H. E. Parkhurst. With over 250 illus- 
trations, maps, etc. $1.50 net. 

" The book will be found one of the most generally satisfactory of 
the many ' nature' books now on the market." — Baltimore Sun. 

" The book is excellently arranged. The text of the narrative part 
is devoid of all scientific terms, being told in the familiar style which 
appeals to the unscientific mind." — Chicago Tribune. 

" A complete classification of the trees, shrubs and vines of the 
Northeastern United States is given . . . and is so introduced 
that even the most scientific reader can readily recognize all the 
varieties." — New York Times Re-vieiv. 

Nature for Its Own Sake. First Studies in Natural 
Appearances. By Prof. John C. Van Dyke, i 2mo, 

^1.50. 

" No one can read it without having his knowledge of nature 
enlarged, his curiosity quickened, and his sensitiveness to the beauty 
that is all about him in the world increased and stimulated." 

— Chicago Tribune. 



A List of Outdoor Books 



Our Northern Shrubs and How to Identify Them. 
By Harriet L. Keeler. With 205 photographic plates 
and 35 pen-and-ink drawings. Cr. 8vo, ^2.00 net. 

" It is just such a book as any true Nature lover will delight in as 
an accompaniment to woodland rambles, and will make prowling 
about in country places all the more delightful, for the quiet and easy 
way in which it helps one to become acquainted with the shrubby things 
that grow along the way." — Philadelphia Telegraph. 

"Each of the two hundred and thirty species that are included are 
analyzed scientifically and described popularly, generally with special 
reference to its origin and history, its hardihood and its decorative pos- 
sibilities. . . . The photographs, all of shrubs in flower or fruit, 
are very beautiful, and so clear as to make identification perfectly 
simple." — The Dial. 

Our Native Trees and How to Identify Them. By 
Harriet L. Keeler. With 178 full-page plates from 
photographs and 128 text drawings. Cr. 8vo, ^2.00 
net. 

"Of such popular books the latest and by far the most interesting is 
by Miss Harriet L. Keeler. . . . Miss Keeler's descriptions are 
clear, compact, and well arranged, and the technical matter is supple- 
mented by much interesting and reliable information concerning the 
economical uses, the history and the origin of the trees which she de- 
scribes. Outline drawings of the flowers and of the fruits of many of 
the species, and beautifully reproduced full-page photographic plates of 
the leaves or of branches of the principal trees, facilitate their deter- 
mination." — C. S. Sargent, Professor of Arboriculture in Harvard 
University. 

" The plan of the book must be heartily commended. No admirer 
of trees should be without it, and if you go away into the country for 
even a short stay, and care to know — as you should care — anythmg 
about our native trees, you will find this volume an invariable guide. 
One can bring home from a walk a collection of leaves and then, with 
the aid of the illustrations in this book, identify them all. Then you 
will know these trees the next time you encounter them, and they will 
take on a new interest and meaning to your eyes." — Brooklyn Eagle. 



A List of Outdoor Books 



The Seasons in a Flower Garden. A Handbook 
of Information and Instruction for the Amateur. By 
Louise Shelton. Illustrated. i zmo, ^i.oo net. 
Postage extra. 

The Fruit Garden. By Geo. Bunyard, V.M.H., 
and Owen Thomas, V.M.H. With numerous sketches 
and foil-page photographic illustrations of every variety 
of fruit. Square 8vo, $7.50 jiet. 

Gardens Old and New. The Country House and 
its Garden Environment. In two volumes. Illustrated. 
Each ^ I 2.00 net. 

The Book of Gardening. A Handbook of Horti- 
culture. Edited by W. D. Drury. With over 750 
illustrations. Thick 8vo, $6.50 net. 

Gardening for Beginners. A Handbook to the 
Garden. By E. T. Cook. Illustrated. 8vo, ^3.75 ;/^/. 

W^all and ^A^ater Gardens. By Gertrude Jekyll. 

Illustrated. 8vo, $3.75 net. 

Roses for English Gardens. By Gertrude 
Jekyll. Illustrated. 8vo, ^3.75 net. 

Trees and Shrubs for English Gardens. By 

Gertrude Jekyll. Illustrated. 8vo, $3.75 net. 

Lilies for English Gardens. By Gertrude 
Jekyll. Illustrated. ^2.50 net. 

Sweet Violets and Pansies. Edited by E. T. 
Cook. Illustrated. 8vo, $1.25 net 



CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS, New York 



H 1 



^» 



